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> Alkaline fix |
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#1
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Alkaline fix
I have scoured the web for alkaline fix in the UK but it is either discontinued or out of stock.
I intend to use it with 510 Pyro although some say normal acid fix has little effect on the stain, whereas others say it does. Anyone know of a source in the UK? |
#2
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C41 fixer is alkali, Fuji or Kodak, and it's easy to get as it's used in Mini labs.
Ian |
#3
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Or you could check out TF-4.
Info: https://stores.photoformulary.com/tf-4-archival-fix/ Uk shop last 4 packs. https://www.stillphotographic.com/pr...ge/tf4-1-litre
__________________
MartyNL “Reaching a creative state of mind thru positive action is considered preferable to waiting for inspiration.” - Minor White, 1950 |
#4
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Even though I don't use an alkaline fixer, I did a browse, and yes it is quite hard to find in the UK and the one or two places that do stock it, are as you say, out of stock. But, it does highlight that it's popular for some reason. As for a good substitute, Ian's suggestion, of using a colour fixer, which I didn't know anything about, sounds good. You learn something new every day on this site!
I also did read that the 'Darkroom Cookbook' lists a formula for it, of which appears to have few ingredients. Also, I browsed a few posts that showed how to convert an ordinary acid fixer into an alkaline one, so this is also an option open to you. Finally, is it just the worry of the staining developer negatives being lightened, that made you enquire about an alkaline fixer? Oh, and welcome to the site! Terry S |
#5
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Thanks for the welcome, Terry. Have been lurking a while now!
I have returned to large format in my mid 70s having practised it many years ago. Yes, the reason for enquiring re alkaline fixer is the report that it reduces the staining of 510 Pyro and my first attempt with this developer using Ilford Rapid Fix did indeed produce quite thin negatives and light staining. I used the same exposure calculations with a spot meter as with all my previous medium format film and 8 frames of large format before these pyro developed negs which produced good density negs in Ilford DD-X. I did use a very dilute 1:500 of 510 Pyro in stand development of 5x4 FP4+ in a Stearman Press tank, so maybe I need to up the ratio of Pyro to 1:200? I’ll check out the C41 fixer since it should be more readily available. Thanks for the input, folks Last edited by Johnf; 4th April 2022 at 04:52 PM. |
#6
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I used ready made chemicals most of my life, but these days try to mix my own from raw chemicals.
Have a look at the video link here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJAkzLMX5GE He covers 510 pyro making as well. Very good channel I think. Cheers.
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It will all be over by Christmas. |
#7
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You may buy pure thiosulfate. sodium thiosulfate. It is non toxic and serves different purposes. Here in Germany, it can be got from Amazon. It is alkalic. Use 200g/L from the crystalline chemical. It may be sold anhydrous too, which reqires a lower concentration. But crystalline is cheaper so I think the common chemical is crystalline.
The sodium salt needs longer for fixing. It was the chemical used in the seventies, I used it in my younger days. Nowaday, the amonnium salt is used mostly. The times for fixing are reduced with it, around 50%. |
#8
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Thanks again, everyone. The link to the John Finch video was very helpful, and Silverprint in the UK stock the required chemicals so I will order from them.
Again, many years ago, I mixed my own chemicals so a touch of nostalgia! Any thoughts on the optimum dilution of 510 Pyro? |
#9
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Quote:
Thanks for the link. It really is a very good channel. |
#10
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Yes I haven't been disappointed once by any of the videos
Mike |
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