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  #21  
Old 27th March 2011, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian Marsh View Post
Unfortunately I must disagree with Trevor regarding self adhesive tape to hinge the boards together. These tapes will remain sticky and attract all sorts of muck. Better to us a gummed tape that will dry permanently.
Very good point Ian. I did use gummed tape some years back and I really should think about returning to it.
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  #22  
Old 27th March 2011, 03:08 PM
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you get gummed linen tape but if the image is to be put into a frame then you don't need to hinge the mat to the backing board assuming backing board is frame size.

A simple gummed hinge will attach print (at top) to backing board or you can use corners like trevor. Linen or rice paper hinges can just be wetted to release them at some future date if required.
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  #23  
Old 27th March 2011, 06:14 PM
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you get gummed linen tape but if the image is to be put into a frame then you don't need to hinge the mat to the backing board assuming backing board is frame size.

A simple gummed hinge will attach print (at top) to backing board or you can use corners like trevor. Linen or rice paper hinges can just be wetted to release them at some future date if required.
Sorry, but if you are hinging a photo to a bottom mount with a window mount on top you should always attach the two (along the longest side), they may well move inside a frame and damage the image, if there is no possibility of them moving then the boards are too tight within the frame and may bow.

Yes T hinges can be used with jap tissue and starch paste. (This is the highest level of conservation framing, and as you say fully and easily reversible) Never use linen for this, as it is a golden rule that any material used for hinging should be weaker than the object. That way if there is any stress from environmental or other issues the hinge will fail and not the picture. Do not use a single long hinge, as this will cause the paper to cockle along this edge.
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  #24  
Old 27th March 2011, 06:22 PM
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Larry, very cheap mount cutters consist of nothing more than a cutter unit that slides in a grooved straight-edge. I would avoid these and go for a mount cutter that also has a fence that can be set to the width of the mount sides, for convenient, quick and repeatable cutting.
Without doubt the cheapest way of getting mounts is to cut them yourself from large boards eg. from Lion or Brittania Mounts, typically 32" x 42" or 32" x 47" You certainly don't need a mount cutter big enough to cut these boards down to size. This job can be done very quickly with a good straight-edge and Stanley knife. ( A cutter big enough to handle these boards - with a proper adjustable fence - is a very big and expensive piece of kit)
I have a Logan Compact Matcutter that cuts mounts up to about 26" overall size, and an adjustable fence for sides up to 4" wide. This works very well. Spare blades are readily available from Art shops.

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  #25  
Old 27th March 2011, 06:40 PM
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Once again, thanks to all for the really helpful insight into mounting. Will try and visit my nearest art shop (15 miles away) on Monday and have a look round now that I've been educated in what to look for and then buy in-store or online depending on availability and price. Cheers!
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  #26  
Old 28th March 2011, 01:58 PM
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Another vote for Longridge here. Excellent product and nice people to do business with.

The (few) mats I've done have used linen tape for a hinge and it's worked well, though you do end up using a fair amount of board and it does make a fairly thick sandwich when you're done.

Good luck with whatever solution you go for!
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  #27  
Old 3rd April 2011, 10:23 PM
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Here's an update

Well made a decision and ordered a Logan 301s cuter, Daler Rowney mountboard, linen-tape and some photo corners.

Everything turned up yesterday and I've made a start on practicing with some old cardboard boxes to get the hang on using it before using the real mountboard.

Must say, it's a really simple but well made product considering it's one of the cheaper end models and it does seem to work well.

It certainly takes a bit of practice in how gentle to be when cutting and slowing up near your marked out end point. I'm somewhat quite please with it's functionality and already made a couple of good mounts for real.

So thanks to all for your recommendations and also to DAVE who uses the same model.

I came across the following link which may be of interest in working out paper/board sizes.

http://www.papersizes.org/a-paper-sizes.htm
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  #28  
Old 3rd April 2011, 11:34 PM
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A couple of tips on mountboard. The bevel cut on cheap mountboard will yellow very quickly. It's a give a way that cheap board has been used. Often see this in local art galleries. That may or may not matter depending on the expected display life of an image. When I say quickly I mean within 12 to 24 months. After a couple or 3 years it will look a dirty brown.
For that reason it is worth using conservation grade mountboard which is acid free and lignin free and the bevel cuts stay white for a long time (in good environmental conditions).

The fine art trade guild have a guide on mountboard specifications. Most of the major manufacturers make a conservation grade board. But beware that most high street art shops sell the cheap stuff.

The best cutting board I ever used was crescent rag board which was very expensive but it cuts beautifully. Rag board is usually classed as museum grade. Museum grade is overkill for silver gelatin prints except rag board is nice to work with as it seems less prone to hook (blade taking a route of its own) when cutting.
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  #29  
Old 4th April 2011, 04:10 PM
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The problem of the blade taking its own route, mentioned by Argentum, can be caused by what you place under the mount board to cut into. A friend got a Longridge mount cutter and phoned to say all his cuts curved off at the end. It turned out he was using a self-healing cutting mat under the mount board. When we took it out and replaced it with an ordinary strip of mount board the problem disappeared.

Alan
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  #30  
Old 4th April 2011, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Clark View Post
The problem of the blade taking its own route, mentioned by Argentum, can be caused by what you place under the mount board to cut into. A friend got a Longridge mount cutter and phoned to say all his cuts curved off at the end. It turned out he was using a self-healing cutting mat under the mount board. When we took it out and replaced it with an ordinary strip of mount board the problem disappeared.

Alan
The thickness of the board and how hard it is is usually the cause of hooking. I use a self healing cutting mat without problems. But I have a logan hand cutter on which the cutting depth is adjustable. If the cutting depth isn't set correctly then hooking will happen but when the depth is set correctly then it doesn't except on thick ( 8 ply ) boards which are notorius for being difficult to cut without a highend mount cutter. This is where rag board comes into its own because it cuts more easily.
Blades go blunt quickly. Change them frequently.
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