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  #21  
Old 3rd May 2010, 07:27 AM
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Stoo and Alan, thanks for the information. I just couldnt remember how much Metol in place of Phenidone.
Also, no restrainer simplifies the formula as given by Stoo.
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  #22  
Old 21st August 2010, 10:41 AM
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After using Xtol for all most all my film developing for many years I've just had my first attempt at using pyrocat-HD.
So far it has worked nicely with Fomapan 100 and Rollei 80s, less success with SFX200.
Have yet to discern any major advantage over Xtol for conventional printing - perhaps grain is a bit finer. However, it does seem to boost contrast nicely for VanDykes and salt-prints.
Odd having warm-tone negatives however.
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  #23  
Old 1st December 2015, 02:14 PM
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Reviving an old thread...

I have been using Leon's Pyrocat process for 35mm, 120 and 5x4 negatives with great success (thanks Leon). I'm using Patteson tanks for 35mm and 120 and Combiplan tanks for 5x4. I have not experienced the problem that Leon had with my Combiplan. My Pyrocat HD was mixed using Glycol for longevity.
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  #24  
Old 1st December 2015, 05:42 PM
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Barry, I make up my Pyrocat HD with de-ionised water (no Glycol) and found that using fresh Metabisulphite one bottle lasted just over 4 years. The type of bottle is important high density plastic or glass must be used.

I hadn't planned to keep it 4 years I made it up while back in the UK while still living in Turkey, having found it working identically to fresh developer after 3 years I decided to see just how long it would last.

I use if now for all my negatives and have done for about 9 to 10 years, I use Paterson and Jobo tanks as well as a Yankee which is similar to the Combiplan. I add 2 drops of wetting agent as my water is so hard to prevent air-bells. Pyrocat negatives are so easy to print and they also scan well.

Ian
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  #25  
Old 1st December 2015, 06:19 PM
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Ian,

Thanks for your comments, I'm amazed at the four year life. I use brown glass bottles and decided to use Glycol because it is easily available on E*ay these days. In fact living in a rural area it is more easy to get hold of than de-ionised water! I will make sure to use fresh Metabisulphate as per your suggested in my next brew, thanks.

My negatives are easy to print and very sharp.
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