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> Zorki-4 Help needed. |
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#1
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Zorki-4 Help needed.
I’ve just bought one of these Russian rangefinders. It seems to be in fairly good condition. There are a couple of things,however,I’m not sure about. I took the lens off to check it was clean inside. When I put it back on, it was a bit stiff towards the end of its travel, as if the mount threads may be damaged. It may be the rear of the lens engaging with the rangefinder cam, but I’m not sure. When the lens is tightened, the focusing index line is to the left of centre when you look down on it. It would be at the one o’clock position when viewed from the front. Is this normal? I would have expected it to be at 12 o’clock, and wondered if the mount had been removed, and replaced in the wrong position.
Finally, the instructions about rewinding the film refer to turning the collar around the shutter release to the left until it reaches a stop, before you rewind. I couldn’t find a stop on mine. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks. Alex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#2
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I don't know about the rewind problem you seem to have, but looking at the index mark it is usually off centre. The Russian method is usually to have a wedge shaped shoe for the rear of the lens to contact and make the rangefinder move. Others such as Leica and Canon use a wheel instead of the wedge to do the same job.
One thing to look for on the wedge is that the wedge cam riveted onto the internal operating arm. This must be fixed securely and not move on the rivet or it will give false readings. I have had a number of 39mm screw thread Russian cameras and they all mounted the lenses off centre. this was the standard, tele and w/angle lenses too. The difference between getting them dead centre and slightly off centre will not make a slightest bit of difference. When you think about it, the lens and lens mount is machined to butt up together when fitted, and that cannot alter unless extremely worn. If they did not butt up together that is a different matter! It will mean the cam on the back of the lens is against the cam wedge but that is stuck. This also a problem if you try to use a Leica lens on a Russian R/F camera, they will occasionally jam up solid and can knock the wedge out of position I even had a Leica 3F and a standard Elmar 50mm/F3.5 and that too was off centre so I don't think you have a problem. |
#3
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I had a Zorki 4 a while ago, and certainly the focus index line is at 12 0clock, and the lens should go on smothly, no tightining up as it gets to the end,There should be a collor around the lens to release the film for re winding, and should turn to the left untill it stops, you won'd find a stop marked on the top plate, you just turn it untill it stops, If you get a good one they can take great photos, the lenses are often superb, I have russian lenses om my Leica's and they are good indeed, but the thing that can let the Zorki's down is the shutter.s, the Zorki 4 can be lazy at slow speeds, and I have a Zorki The original copy of the Leica, that the instructions say do not use in tempertures below 7 as the shutter will not work, but whenthe work they are good cameras
Richard
__________________
jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#4
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Thanks John and Richard. I’ve sorted the rewind problem. The shutter seems to work as it should. I’m going to test the accuracy of the rangefinder in daylight tomorrow, and I’ll have a look at the cam to make sure it is secure. I think the rangefinder may need some adjustment, but I’ll wait and see. Will report back after the test.
Alex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#5
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Testing the R/F
Quote:
To avoid any risk of poor rangefinder adjustment disguising itself as camera shake, it would be highly advisable to put the camera on a tripod and use a cable release or the self timer. I don't know if it is still valid (and I have no reason it isn't) the optimum distance to photograph an object to confirm the accuracy of the rangefinder is/was 50 x the focal length of the lens. In the case of the standard lens of 50mm this is 2,500mm or 2.5 meters. This formula was in a 1950's Leica manual and was the distance that all Leitz lenses were collimated at to give their best performance, so it would be a good starting point. It would be interesting to hear you results. Good luck |
#6
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Thanks, John. I will use your suggestions tomorrow and report back. I’m hoping it doesn’t need any adjustment, but time will tell
Alex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#7
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Update
I have just done a search for lens collimation on the webb and come up with the distance of 1.25m which is half of what the Leica book suggests, but these were from tests on modern F1.4/50mm Nikon/Cannon/Pentax AF lenses.
They used a steel ruler with clear divisional markings in cm's with the ruler secured at an angle of 45 degrees pointing towards the camera with the focussing point in the centre of the ruler which is the 1.25cm distance. As your lens is an older type I would do the test as Leitz suggests at 2.5m as well as the 1.25m distance. Oh yes they were all tested at full aperture which makes sense too. It would be pointless doing one at infinity, say over 50m, because depth of field would probably disguise any error, even at F2 |
#8
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Well, I managed to set the rangefinder using information from a FADU thread about this camera, and some other material online. The camera has, however, developed another issue, and will have to go back to the shop.
Recently, I’ve found that buying older cameras can be very frustrating. Some work, but many don’t. I’m going through a bad spell as far as finding the the working examples. I do like the look of the Zorki, and will keep searching for a good one. There is an eBay seller who has several advertised as serviced. May be worth a try... Alex. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#9
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Quote:
Richard
__________________
jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#10
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These cameras suffer from dried out lubricant so can probably never be relied upon without servicing (unlike Japanese cameras). I've had a kiev 4M and a Zenit EM serviced by Oleg - https://www.okvintagecamera.com. They now work perfectly and take really nice pictures.
For the record, I have tried servicing a Zorki 4 myself, but the critical area relating to sluggish low speed operation appeared to be inside the shutter drum, which from bitter experience I wasn't prepared to dismantle! |
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