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> What are you printing, right now! |
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#121
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Hi Theo. Your post looks like a bit random for this thread- I'm guessing you are commenting on someone's image? If you could describe which one I bet mods will fix this. I've been coming here for years, and managed to put one of my recent images in completely the wrong gallery!
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#122
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And since I'm here anyway, I've just made my prints for the Negative exchange. This is my second try at this particular negative, on a different paper.
Finding a negative for the exchange meant looking through my files, and I came across a few images which I'd never printed but which now interest me. I've been printing some of these, which is handy as I'm not getting much time to make new images just now. |
#123
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correction
Quote:
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#124
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Quote:
You can imagine that while still wet, the print appears more contrast rich and extra glossy than when dry.
__________________
MartyNL “Reaching a creative state of mind thru positive action is considered preferable to waiting for inspiration.” - Minor White, 1950 |
#125
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Thanks for bringing up this thread gents. I haven't been printing since last summer.
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#126
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Quote:
Here are a few of my favourite prints, including a self portrait. Only been developing for 10 months! You can see they're quite grey. Looking to start doing colour soon. Theo |
#127
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I think that something is going wrong here. I haven't used FB for quite some time as I have found RC much more convenient and lack of contrast has never been a problem in my experience with negatives of reasonable tonal range. The new Ilford RC MGV appears to be more contrasty than its predecessor. I have, however, found that it develops to completion more slowly in the Ilford MG Print developer at 1+9 that I use. I develop for 2½ min. @ 20ºC in a Nova vertical slot processor (toaster). I don't remember any problem in the days, many moons ago, that I used dishes.
Hope things work out OK. Mike |
#128
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I'm not really sure what else to try. Perhaps the lamp I'm using is too strong, or the chemical too concentrate. The former is what came in the box (sorry can't remember what the lamp is but it is a b&w Paterson enlarger) and the for the latter I'm using ratios it recommends. Intriguing problem. Theo Sent from my moto g(10) using Tapatalk |
#129
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Hi Theo. Development of the print should be done for the time suggested by the paper and chemical manufacturer, and at their recommended temperature. 20C is normal for B&W. For RC papers, the development time is normally 1-2 minutes. If your developer is fresh, temperature is 20C, and the print is black in 60 seconds, it is likely over exposed on the enlarger. If your enlarger has the correct bulb as specified by the manufacturer, you should be able to get print exposure times somewhere between 15-30 seconds. Are you using the lens stopped down, at least two full stops from maximum aperture? F5.6 is a good start for lenses with f2.8 maximum, and f8 if you have an f4 maximum. You can stop down further to give you longer basic exposures.
One other thing to watch, however, is the overall density of your negatives. If they are under-exposed, they will appear very ‘thin’. Normal print exposure times will then give a very dark print. Have a look at your negatives first, just to make sure you are happy with their exposure. Although print exposure and development can be varied quite a bit, you should be able to have a fairly standard exposure time, and development time which give you an acceptable basic print almost every time. Post an image of some negatives if you need advice about their exposure. Alex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#130
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Just dropping in quickly here.
Theo, are you sure you don't have any light leaks in your darkroom, either from windows / doors or from the enlarger itself during the exposure? And are your safelights tested safe? What happens if you develop/stop/fix a piece of paper directly without exposure? |
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