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  #121  
Old 19th January 2022, 08:19 AM
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skellum skellum is offline
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Hi Theo. Your post looks like a bit random for this thread- I'm guessing you are commenting on someone's image? If you could describe which one I bet mods will fix this. I've been coming here for years, and managed to put one of my recent images in completely the wrong gallery!
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  #122  
Old 19th January 2022, 08:41 AM
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And since I'm here anyway, I've just made my prints for the Negative exchange. This is my second try at this particular negative, on a different paper.
Finding a negative for the exchange meant looking through my files, and I came across a few images which I'd never printed but which now interest me. I've been printing some of these, which is handy as I'm not getting much time to make new images just now.
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  #123  
Old 19th January 2022, 02:52 PM
theobrown theobrown is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skellum View Post
Hi Theo. Your post looks like a bit random for this thread- I'm guessing you are commenting on someone's image? If you could describe which one I bet mods will fix this. I've been coming here for years, and managed to put one of my recent images in completely the wrong gallery!
Sorry I thought replying to a message would pop up as a comment, i forgot to quote it. It was in response to MartyNL's original post with a picture
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  #124  
Old 19th January 2022, 05:42 PM
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MartyNL MartyNL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theobrown View Post
Sorry I thought replying to a message would pop up as a comment, i forgot to quote it. It was in response to MartyNL's original post with a picture
Yes, thank you Theo, all fiber base paper.
You can imagine that while still wet, the print appears more contrast rich and extra glossy than when dry.
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  #125  
Old 20th January 2022, 04:57 PM
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Thanks for bringing up this thread gents. I haven't been printing since last summer.
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  #126  
Old 22nd January 2022, 06:20 PM
theobrown theobrown is offline
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Originally Posted by MartyNL View Post
Yes, thank you Theo, all fiber base paper.
You can imagine that while still wet, the print appears more contrast rich and extra glossy than when dry.
I've never used FB paper, and I think that's why all my prints have come out quite flat and low contrast. RC paper doesn't pop like I'd like (unless there is something else I am doing wrong).

Here are a few of my favourite prints, including a self portrait. Only been developing for 10 months! You can see they're quite grey. Looking to start doing colour soon.

Theo
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  #127  
Old 22nd January 2022, 06:54 PM
MikeHeller MikeHeller is offline
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I think that something is going wrong here. I haven't used FB for quite some time as I have found RC much more convenient and lack of contrast has never been a problem in my experience with negatives of reasonable tonal range. The new Ilford RC MGV appears to be more contrasty than its predecessor. I have, however, found that it develops to completion more slowly in the Ilford MG Print developer at 1+9 that I use. I develop for 2½ min. @ 20ºC in a Nova vertical slot processor (toaster). I don't remember any problem in the days, many moons ago, that I used dishes.

Hope things work out OK.

Mike
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  #128  
Old 23rd January 2022, 11:28 AM
theobrown theobrown is offline
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Originally Posted by MikeHeller View Post
I think that something is going wrong here. I haven't used FB for quite some time as I have found RC much more convenient and lack of contrast has never been a problem in my experience with negatives of reasonable tonal range. The new Ilford RC MGV appears to be more contrasty than its predecessor. I have, however, found that it develops to completion more slowly in the Ilford MG Print developer at 1+9 that I use. I develop for 2½ min. @ 20ºC in a Nova vertical slot processor (toaster). I don't remember any problem in the days, many moons ago, that I used dishes.

Hope things work out OK.

Mike
Interesting I always blamed the RC paper for the dull effect. I use both Ilford RC MCV paper with ilford paper developer chemical. What's weird is my exposure time on enlarger is around 9 seconds (very short) and developing time is around 35 seconds (also very short). Any longer on either of these and the print becomes all dark.

I'm not really sure what else to try. Perhaps the lamp I'm using is too strong, or the chemical too concentrate. The former is what came in the box (sorry can't remember what the lamp is but it is a b&w Paterson enlarger) and the for the latter I'm using ratios it recommends.

Intriguing problem.
Theo

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  #129  
Old 23rd January 2022, 04:15 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
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Hi Theo. Development of the print should be done for the time suggested by the paper and chemical manufacturer, and at their recommended temperature. 20C is normal for B&W. For RC papers, the development time is normally 1-2 minutes. If your developer is fresh, temperature is 20C, and the print is black in 60 seconds, it is likely over exposed on the enlarger. If your enlarger has the correct bulb as specified by the manufacturer, you should be able to get print exposure times somewhere between 15-30 seconds. Are you using the lens stopped down, at least two full stops from maximum aperture? F5.6 is a good start for lenses with f2.8 maximum, and f8 if you have an f4 maximum. You can stop down further to give you longer basic exposures.
One other thing to watch, however, is the overall density of your negatives. If they are under-exposed, they will appear very ‘thin’. Normal print exposure times will then give a very dark print. Have a look at your negatives first, just to make sure you are happy with their exposure. Although print exposure and development can be varied quite a bit, you should be able to have a fairly standard exposure time, and development time which give you an acceptable basic print almost every time. Post an image of some negatives if you need advice about their exposure.
Alex


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  #130  
Old 23rd January 2022, 04:32 PM
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Just dropping in quickly here.
Theo, are you sure you don't have any light leaks in your darkroom, either from windows / doors or from the enlarger itself during the exposure?
And are your safelights tested safe?
What happens if you develop/stop/fix a piece of paper directly without exposure?
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