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  #1  
Old 2nd July 2009, 09:13 PM
numnutz numnutz is offline
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Default e6 Processing kits

HI I have just bought a 10 x 8 Deardorff - it came with an unused box of 50 sheets of Fuji Velvia 100 - The processor I use at the moment is a Paterson motorized Orbital processor. I am happy with the monochrome results from this setup using Pyro developer, but I wonder if it is suitable for colour. This is because of the low amount of solution used, 200ml, with continuous agitation. Has anyone here tried this combination? Or has anyone got any other recommendations. I have experience of running a commercial C41 dip dunk processor and with an E6 hand line but none using one shot chemistry.

I wish to do this at home rather than bother with Lab processing.

Thanks for any advice you can give.

nn
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Old 2nd July 2009, 11:14 PM
Neil Smith Neil Smith is offline
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I have used a Paterson Orbital for colour prints when I first started processing over 20 years ago, though I have never used it for E6 or colour film, but I would say that temperature control, which is critical in C41 and E6, would be impossible to maintain within the acceptable limits with the Orbital. The cost of 10x8 film is extremely high and I think you would be sensible to look at a temperature controlled option, like the Jobo system.

Neil
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Old 3rd July 2009, 06:50 AM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by numnutz View Post
HI I have just bought a 10 x 8 Deardorff - it came with an unused box of 50 sheets of Fuji Velvia 100 - The processor I use at the moment is a Paterson motorized Orbital processor. I am happy with the monochrome results from this setup using Pyro developer, but I wonder if it is suitable for colour. This is because of the low amount of solution used, 200ml, with continuous agitation. Has anyone here tried this combination? Or has anyone got any other recommendations. I have experience of running a commercial C41 dip dunk processor and with an E6 hand line but none using one shot chemistry.

I wish to do this at home rather than bother with Lab processing.

Thanks for any advice you can give.

nn
I suspect that the price of commercial processing of 10x8 reversal will make a rich man weep!

I suspect that the fluid volume you propose is more than enough, but haven't the experience of this process to confirm it.

I also suspect that provided all fluids, and the tray, are at the correct temp at the start of the process, and you work in a warm room, then you may get away with this method. It's certainly worth a try.

Equipment that is temperature regulated would be better though.

Enjoy the Deardorff, what lens are you using?
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Old 3rd July 2009, 07:31 AM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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A further thought. The E6 chemical instructions should give the area or number of films that can be processed in a litre. Since a 10x8 is about the same area as a 120 film, you should be able to calculate chemical usage. It's possible, that since you propose continuous agitation, that you could reduce the quantity below 200ml.
Let us know how you get on.
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Old 3rd July 2009, 07:46 AM
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B&W Neil B&W Neil is offline
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Me thinking sideways here - how about a 10x8 Nova Tank (a slotty thing). Good temp control but you may have to adapt the method of placing the film sheets of film in the tank. Three or four temp controlled slots should get you through the temp critical parts of the E6 process. Also have a look at what Nova have and see if you can get some ideas. No need to buy anything new as there are plenty of used items to be had cheaply these days.

Neil.
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Old 3rd July 2009, 10:13 AM
numnutz numnutz is offline
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Quote:
Enjoy the Deardorff, what lens are you using?
The camera came with a Symmar - 300mm f5.6 in very nice condition but very large.

I also have a Ross Rapid Asymmetrical (?sp) of undetermined focal length that is supposed to cover 8½ x 6½ hopefully it may cover 10 x 8 if I make another smaller Waterhouse stop for it. I also have a "Busches Wide angle Aplanat No2" f16 with rotating Waterhouse stops that is quoted as covering 8 x 10 but has not been tested as yet.

When the hot weather is passed I will take a few shots in the garden to check for light leaks and each of the lenses.

I hope this hasn't messed the thread up...

nn

Last edited by numnutz; 3rd July 2009 at 10:51 AM.
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Old 3rd July 2009, 11:07 AM
Michael Michael is offline
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I used the Tetenal Colortec kit when I was processing my own 120 and the odd 35mm film; but I haven't used it for LF. A Jobo TBE (just a simple heated tank, really, with bottles and the developing tank immersed in it) was what I used at the time and I had no temperature control problems to speak of. No matter.

Anyway, the Colortec instruction brochure gives the working solution yield in 3 quantities: 1 litre, 12/135 or 12/120; 5 litres 60/135 or 60/120; 15 litres 180/135 or 180/120. "Maximum yield is achieved only by putting through at least two films at a time". I never mixed a full litre: just made up what one tank needed and then stored the concentrates with Protectan, which was fine for a few weeks. Processing times extended with each use of the same working solution.

The brochure also contains a good diagnostic list.

E6 needs a lot more washing water than do B&W or C41 - temperature is critical for the wash between the two developers but can vary about +/- 5 degrees after that.

I'd echo Neil Smith's Jobo suggestion: their systems are so well conceived and made. Anyway, I hope that some of this is relevant and possibly helpful.
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