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> Humidity levels for Alternative processes |
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#1
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Humidity levels for Alternative processes
Hi peeps
I have bought a humidifier for the darkroom that can set the humidity from 40% to 100% in steps of 5 I am starting with the new cyanotype (ware) and vandyke processes and eventually platinum/palladium printing Anyone know the ideal humidity level for these processes plus any other info etc Cheers Paddy |
#2
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Paddy,
I have made successful images with both of those alt processes and have never worried about the humidity inside my darkroom. Bearing mind I'm in west Cornwall, not far from the sea, and have an outside wooden shed darkroom! I would set your humidifier to whatever ever is considered to be normal for a domestic dwelling and take it from there. Best of luck, Neil.
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"The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance." Aristotle Neil Souch |
#3
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Hi Neil thanks for the reply
I have an outside shed too, but it,s grim up north I have read plenty of times that a humidity between 50-65 % seems to be better for alt processes so bought a cheap humidifier out of maplin for £45 I know pt/pld printing needs a higher humidity, when i went on a David chow pt/pld course a few years ago he kept the humidity around 55% and we had to write the humidity on the back of the print I suspect one of the experts on this will enlighten us pretty soon But i am looking forward to doing some new cyanotype and vandyke prints soon, even though i am using digi negs Paddy |
#4
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Paddy,
It hasn't stopped raining down here since Christmas! I would do as you've been taught re the humidly for pt/pld. My experience to date has been on Salt Prints, Cyanotypes (both types), Vandyke, Gum Printing and currently Bromoils. My favs are Gums and Bromoils. So much so I don't think I will try pt/pld now. With all those I have tried I haven't paid any attention to humidity. Winter and summer alike - I produce them OK. I should imagine though it could well be different with pt/pld. What you do need is to use is a neg that has the density that suits the process (one neg will not suit all), find an art paper that works, get the PH right and avoid any form of contamination. If you get stumped come back here and we may be able to help - but not on the DI negs as I don't do them Neil.
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"The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance." Aristotle Neil Souch |
#5
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Just an ignorant( in the "not knowing" sense of the word ) amateur's thought but given the age of these alternative processes I'd have thought that humidity control in those far-off days for most if not all of the practitioners would have been difficult if not impossible. Thus it seems unlikely that it would have been that critical which is good news.
Mike |
#6
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Quote:
An interesting thought but it should be remembered that in those far-off days there would not have been UV lamps and the exposures would have been made outside in the sun. So I wonder how much humidity would have been outside in the sun? Mind it could have been a problem in Queensland, Australia (or similar) If I had a humidifier I would use it, especially if an expert advised to do this, just to be on the safe side. Neil.
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"The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance." Aristotle Neil Souch |
#7
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Oh well i have it now so might as well use it
I have a radiator and the humidifier so should get a 55% humidity, it will regulate it at that level The trouble with the winter cold is it cant hold on to humidity like the summer I will be doing a test strip on sunday and then leave it to oxidise for a few days instead of using a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide Paddy |
#8
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Quote:
Best of luck Paddy, don't forget to give us an update. Neil.
__________________
"The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance." Aristotle Neil Souch |
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