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  #21  
Old 30th July 2013, 02:18 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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It may be that RC will not last as long as FB. It still hasn't been around as long as FB but I sometimes wonder whether the alleged longevity issues aren't a leftover from the early days that Ian refers to.

They have now been overcome but they won't go away. A bit like the "beware of the sudden death" Xtol phenomenon which tends still to persist

Mike
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  #22  
Old 30th July 2013, 05:14 PM
JOReynolds JOReynolds is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostlabours View Post

Image bleaching occured with some papers stored in plastic display files and similar storage.

Ian
The plasticisers in typical transparent PVC sleeves can cause problems on most silver-gelatine images, sometimes within months. Best to store portfolio pics in polypropylene 'archival' sleeves, which needn't cost any more if you know where to look.
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  #23  
Old 31st July 2013, 08:52 AM
Lostlabours Lostlabours is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOReynolds View Post
The plasticisers in typical transparent PVC sleeves can cause problems on most silver-gelatine images, sometimes within months. Best to store portfolio pics in polypropylene 'archival' sleeves, which needn't cost any more if you know where to look.
The issue was specific to early RC papers and wasn't just when stored in plastic sleeve/folders.

In the commercial world photographs are used extensively and aren't stored to be archival but used to sell products it's important that they don't fade in months regardless of their stage/display conditions.

Ian
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  #24  
Old 31st July 2013, 08:55 AM
JOReynolds JOReynolds is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Butler View Post
Anyone who's interest is in obtaining the best possible print quality will not be using RC paper for their Fine Prints so how well they archive is not important.
J.
Variable-contrast paper, with three emulsion layers, will inevitably have a kink in the HD curve, roughly corresonding with skin tone in portraits. Ilford now only offers grades 1, 2 and 3 in Ilfospeed RC or grades 2 and 3 in Ilfobrom Galerie FB, so for fine prints, pay attention to exposure and film development to produce a negative that doesn't need contrast adjustment.
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  #25  
Old 31st July 2013, 09:23 AM
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I'm 52 and don't kid myself that my prints are so good that they have to be archivally processed to last a hundred years. My kids will probably bin them when my clogs go pop. However, I greatly prefer the surface appearance of unglazed fibre based prints over anything RC that I've seen. If there was an RC surface that was a good match for unglazed fibre based I'd happily use that paper.

All this is moot if you frame a print under glass. Prints from the same negs made to match on RC and FB paper can't be told apart under glass in my experience.


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  #26  
Old 31st July 2013, 09:58 AM
JOReynolds JOReynolds is offline
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Originally Posted by alexmuir View Post
I have often wondered about making my own heated dryer. Is the temperature critical, or could I use a simple heater like a grill? Alex
The Ilfolab RC dryer uses long quartz radiant heaters, such as used for bathrooms, above and below the paper. The travel speed or temperature are adjusted to dry just short of curling. The Durst Epsom processor dryer had the same layout but had internal smoke detection to cut the heater on the first whiff of scorching. I think it would take a lot of R&D to perfect a DIY version. But you could try grilling, holding the paper between two closely-spaced wire oven shelves, to limit curling. Let everyone know how you get on! It might be worth the effort.
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  #27  
Old 31st July 2013, 10:32 AM
Paulographic Paulographic is offline
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As for drying RC papers I have 14 bought new (50p each at a mill shop) T towels, actually catering "glass cloths", that are exclusively used to dry prints and regularly washed. I lay one on a work surface lay six drained 10x8s on it face up, lay another towel on top, gently run a rolling pin over to remove surplus water and then lay them somewhere safe to dry. Contact sheets I would dry quickly with a hair dryer.
I have a couple of Paterson drying racks but the prints being vertical half way through drying you have to turn them upside down to stop moisture pooling at the bottom edge.

FB papers I dry flat after the same treatment and unless later toning them when dry flatten between the pages of an coffee table art book weighed down with more books.
I have no shortage of this kind of book.
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  #28  
Old 31st July 2013, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOReynolds View Post
The Ilfolab RC dryer uses long quartz radiant heaters, such as used for bathrooms, above and below the paper. The travel speed or temperature are adjusted to dry just short of curling. The Durst Epsom processor dryer had the same layout but had internal smoke detection to cut the heater on the first whiff of scorching. I think it would take a lot of R&D to perfect a DIY version. But you could try grilling, holding the paper between two closely-spaced wire oven shelves, to limit curling. Let everyone know how you get on! It might be worth the effort.
Wonder if my panini toaster would be any good? :-)


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  #29  
Old 31st July 2013, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Smith View Post
Me too. And they are made to look at rather than to feel!


Steve.
I will have to disagree on this one and I'm not saying you are wrong Steve. It is just that I love handling prints and I often look at them at different angles, I seldom frame them. That is why I love matt fibre prints. I also like the feel of Ilford MG portfolio (thick) paper - I have yet to try the new, recently introduced version, and single weight FB prints in small formats (not available any longer of course as single weight paper is the most difficult to coat - too fragile on todays high-speed coating macines)

Last edited by Miha; 31st July 2013 at 11:25 AM.
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  #30  
Old 31st July 2013, 12:00 PM
JOReynolds JOReynolds is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brock View Post
Wonder if my panini toaster would be any good? :-)
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What an excellent idea! I don't have a panini toaster, so I'll have to leave the comparative hot/cold test to you! I do like to hear of a practical solution.
two points:
- the Ilfolab dryer squeegees off surface water between mangle rollers.
- I've only observed the improved Ilfolab dryer gloss with MGIV RC gloss paper. Pearl finish dried in air or in the machine looked much the same.
But the machine really does save time - a whole evening's work, perhaps a couple of dozen 12" x 16" prints, dried perfectly in a few minutes. And yes, some of them have been waiting, soaking for a couple of hours without ill effect.
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