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  #41  
Old 25th April 2013, 07:24 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Sorry Stocky I have only just seen your post. it was in one of the sections within Darkroom and Developing on the U.K. e-bay and it appears it has now gone. Maybe the auction end-date was near when I saw them.

Once you get to the U.K. e-bay go to categories, then film photography then darkroom and developing which is sub divided into paper, processing equipment, chemicals, loups and magnifiers etc

Occasionally such as in this case you see some out-of-the-ordinary stuff.

Mike
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  #42  
Old 25th April 2013, 09:27 PM
Stocky Stocky is offline
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No problem. I do have enough "stuff"!

But I have some Nova print holders for my ordinary Nova (not FB) but they are SO EXPENSIVE I've looked for alternatives. I use clips in my vertical washer too, but I run out of Nova clips fast and then use dental film clips for the prints in the washer. (This because my washer is for 16x20 and my prints are smaller)
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  #43  
Old 26th April 2013, 08:02 AM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stocky View Post
(I)...use dental film clips for the prints in the washer.
I would never have thought of using them or even known of their existence to be honest!

Here follows a link on ebay for them, which at this price I might get one to see how they go = a lot cheaper than 'official' Nova clips for sure.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-DENTAL...item257650f184

Do they have small spikes in them like the Nova ones do?

If so, I feel a Delia / Cranberry rush coming on and the sellers will wonder why!

Terry S
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  #44  
Old 27th April 2013, 10:30 PM
Stocky Stocky is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry S View Post
I would never have thought of using them or even known of their existence to be honest!

Here follows a link on ebay for them, which at this price I might get one to see how they go = a lot cheaper than 'official' Nova clips for sure.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-DENTAL...item257650f184

Do they have small spikes in them like the Nova ones do?

If so, I feel a Delia / Cranberry rush coming on and the sellers will wonder why!

Terry S
Hi Terry, yes, very similar to mine. I don't use them in the Nova, because although they don't have sharp or rough edges they just might eventually roughen the plastic slots (but maybe not). They have a single point of contact with the film/paper on one side, facing a "pimple" on the other side, so that the contact point is minimal, but they would still puncture the paper more than a Nova clip. (I trim my prints so it doesn't matter)

Having only a single point of contact you need two for safe handling, compared to the Nova clip whose two points and ridge to limit the edge of the paper make them far more secure for one hand use.

For the vertical slot washer, when I have lowered the print into the washer, I hold the print with one hand and remove the Nova clip (or clips, depending on the paper size) and replace it with one or two dental clips with the other. This entails getting your hands wet which I prefer to not do in the darkroom. The beauty of the Nova clip is in keeping your hands dry.

When closed my dental clips are 12.2mm thick, a bit more than a Nova clip. If thickness were an issue, they could be bent to be a bit thinner.

Worth a try!
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  #45  
Old 5th April 2021, 01:11 PM
joepbar joepbar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John King View Post
You don't need a 4 bath to do colour. A Trimate 3 bath is all you want. slots for RA4 dev, stop and blix. then take the print elsewhere to be washed. Be aware if you use the same processor for B&W as RA4 it will become a real pain to have to keep draining the whole processor when you want to change over. The Stop and blix are pretty stable and will accept a little contamination but the RA4 developer certainly isn't and will have to be properly rinsed out when you need to swap over.
Then there is the weight. The three chemical baths can be drained in-situ, but the water jackets of a 12x16 which is what you will need for A4 prints contain approx 4 litres of water each. They are heavy to lift about (approx 16 pounds) and a regular movement can cause leaks to form internally - I know! It's happened to me. Internal leaks cannot be repaired easily and certainly not by the user
Hi John,

Thanks for all the useful information in advance.

One thing I'm wondering as I've been trawling through threads about the nova processor is if you are doing your washing in a separate tank or tray, then does the nova processor with dev, stop, rinse (optional as I have a 4 tray on the way), and blix taking up the four slots require a flow of water or can it be stagnant and topped up accordingly after each print session?

The reason I ask is that I saw in the nova manual that you can attach a tap, and I assumed that this would mean some people are doing the washing stage within the processor, maybe with black and white for example where temperature isn't so precise. Not needing a running water supply will remove limitations of where I can set up to print, as once the paper is no longer light sensitive I can just take the print to a separate room with a water supply to rinse / dry and this would be a lot more convenient in my case.


Prior to this I've always printed in labs with large processing machines, however I look forward to a more personal set up at home Any info will be hugely appreciated.

All the best,
Joe
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  #46  
Old 5th April 2021, 02:29 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Yes Joe there is no need for any running water for a Nova. All that needs to be done after or even during a session if you are processing enough prints is replenishing of the slots. In the case of the developer the prints tend to use it up so replenishment can be simply pouring in what has been lost according to what the replenishment rate is. If that rate means that more goes in that came out then the taps at the bottom need to be opened to allow the total of waht needs to be removed to equate to what needs to go in

As you say a large holding tray with water can be used to store the prints for final washing. If it were a heavy session of printing you might take in 2 large buckets, one full of clean water and one empty from which you can empty the tray and refill it with clean water several times if necessary

Mike
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  #47  
Old 6th April 2021, 10:53 AM
joepbar joepbar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray View Post
Yes Joe there is no need for any running water for a Nova. All that needs to be done after or even during a session if you are processing enough prints is replenishing of the slots. In the case of the developer the prints tend to use it up so replenishment can be simply pouring in what has been lost according to what the replenishment rate is. If that rate means that more goes in that came out then the taps at the bottom need to be opened to allow the total of waht needs to be removed to equate to what needs to go in

As you say a large holding tray with water can be used to store the prints for final washing. If it were a heavy session of printing you might take in 2 large buckets, one full of clean water and one empty from which you can empty the tray and refill it with clean water several times if necessary

Mike
Thank you for responding Mike, this is all really helpful. Iím excited to get printing with it!
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  #48  
Old 8th April 2021, 08:25 AM
John King John King is offline
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Default A three personal tips using a NOVA

The clips that hold the paper can hold quite a few droplets of the blix hidden out of sight. My practise is to rinse the clip(s) in a bucket of water to get rid of the remaining blix and then rinse again in a 2 liter jug of clean warm water and shake dry.

The next is when I have finished for the session, I replenish all 3 slots with new chemicals. I use Kodak Ektacolor developer and replenish at the rate of 10cc per 80 sq ins of paper or 100cc per 800 sq ins. I keep a close record of the area of paper I use including test strips.

The stop bath soon goes black so you cannot see the colour change when it is exhausted, so I replenish at twice the rate of the developer. This may over fill the slot, so just drain enough out to reduce the level.

The blix bath is also Kodak so that is replenished at the same rate as the developer.

If you use Tetenal chemicals the replenishment rate is not printed in the instructions. I tried it once without a great deal of success because of the unknown replenishment rate. I had used the same as the Kodak which soon became obvious was not enough. Even speaking to Tetenal themselves, I could not get to a specific answer, so I went back to Kodak. I think the Tetenal kit is not designed to be used with a NOVA in mind and more suitable for a rotary drum development. (I would rather remove my teeth without anaesthetic!).

The Kodak developer is outstandingly stable and with correct replenishment it can last months. At one time it was over a year between full flushing out.

Finally, at the end of the session when all has been replenished I wipe the outside down and cover the top with clingfilm. The tubular lids do a good job of stopping the chemicals from 'going off' but even over a week or so the liquids can evaporate. The clingfilm while not stopping the evaporation completely, it slows it down so you can start printing straight away at the next session. If the levels have dropped, they can be refilled with plain water to the level it was when you left it.

PS. I also use Kodak paper which you have to buy by the roll. This roll is about 95M long so that I can cut 12" wide sheets up to 16" long with a guillotine at will. It is a shed load cheaper than the Fuji equivalent. There is nothing wrong with Fuji but the Kodak has better saturation (my opinion) and the paper is on a heavier base. When it is still wet the black will have a Royal Blue tone which will go black when dried.

I made myself a custom dispenser out of aluminium sheet and angle strip to join the outer case. If anyone is interested, I can send them the design details.

Last edited by John King; 8th April 2021 at 08:42 AM.
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  #49  
Old 8th April 2021, 11:16 AM
EdmundH EdmundH is offline
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John, I would second your recommendation for Kodak paper; I found Fuji paper so thin that it was hard to handle without causing permanent creases. However the investment in a roll of Kodak paper is considerable, so a box of Fuji Crystal archive is a reasonable way to start out.
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  #50  
Old 8th April 2021, 04:11 PM
Nat Polton Nat Polton is offline
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https://www.firstcall-photographic.c...-5-litres/p628

The above link will take you to the Firstcall listing for Tetenal RA4 print kit.
At the end of the white print on a black background you will find the replenishment rates when using a Nova Slot Tank.

Cheers.
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