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> Have I gone wrong? |
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#1
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Have I gone wrong?
I recently shot on Delta 100 film....quite a bright day and was using yellow and red filters.
I love the results with this film but here's the crunch! I did some test prints at college - our tutor likes us to get fairly long exposures so we can dodge and burn if needed. I stopped down the enlarger lens as far as it would go and was still only reaching a 5 sec exposure! Have I done something wrong? Can I 'up' the exposure time any? All the negs I test printed were the same!
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Laura RB67 Pro S Canon EOS 30 |
#2
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Laura,
Are your negs on the thin side and are you doing a very small enlargement? Neil.
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"The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance." Aristotle Neil Souch |
#3
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5 seconds? Bulb too bright, printing an image too small (you know enlarger head too close to the baseboard).... Try a ND filter in the enlarger somewhere...long shot never done it myself, but I can't think of anything else. 5 seconds gives you no time to move for dodging. What's the smallest aperture on the enlarging lens?
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#4
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Aha! These were test prints at 5 x 7 in.
I am so stooopid!!! Of course the time will be different when I enlarge them to 10 x 8. Doh!
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Laura RB67 Pro S Canon EOS 30 |
#5
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Laura,were you printing on the Kentmere fineprint? and if so were you printing a small size,say 5x7? if so then the kentmere paper that I remember was much faster than any other, at least a stop and not suitable for very small enlargements. If you were printing to around 10x8 then it sounds as if your negatives are very thin,either underdevelopment or underexposure, in which case it is just possible that you have done what many of us have done and forgeton the filter factor, with Delta 100 and a red filter the actual film sped would be very low,around 12.5,and the yellow filter around 50, If you are using kentmere paper try changing to Ilford, and try printing larger,.I can,t offhand think of anything else,Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#6
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If you are using a colour head then you can dial in equal amounts of cyan, yellow and magenta, say 50 units. This will dim the light output. You can then add in the same values of yellow and magenta to get back to the contrast you originally had. You will have to do another test strip, but the exposure will be longer.
Richard is quite correct about the difference between Ilford and Kentmere, but I haven't tested the latest (ilford) Kentmere to see if that is still the case. |
#7
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Quote:
See:http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/...8932591755.pdf |
#8
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I was using Ilford MG RC for my 5 x 7 test prints but will be printing my final 10 x 8 images on Kentmere.
I didn't know about filter factors with the Delta - it's the first time I've used it. The negs look okay though. It is a colour enlarger head. <off to read up>
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Laura RB67 Pro S Canon EOS 30 |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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Laura, I use all manual cameras, with no built in metering, using a hand held meter, and I must always increase exposure to compensate for light loss due to the filter,with a red I must give 3 stops more exposure and yellow is 1, but you have a ttl metering camera which takes care of the filter for you, Sorry, I am so used to my own cameras I was'nt thinking, but the increase in exposure is what I meant by filter factor,Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
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