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> loading 120 film to developing reel |
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#21
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thanks Richard, this sounds easy - I always have a load of pencils around in the darkroom.
peter |
#22
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I know I read somewhere on FADU about bending a small portion of the start of the film you are loading in the opposite direction to the natural curl of the film, so basically you have a fold of a piece about 5mm at the front of the film you are loading - hope that makes sense - you don't fold it completely over, just enough so that there is a a pronounced 'tick' if you are looking at the side of the film (though obviously you would have to judge this be feel!). The forward edge of the film is still the forward edge. You know it works like a dream - 120 AND 35mm just seem to slip onto Paterson reels with no troubles at all.
Whoever suggested it - a great big thank you! Phil |
#23
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I have a dark tent, there i place 2 reels, one plastic and one steel, both for JOBO 1500 tank, i start with the plastic, if i could do it fine then i use it, if not i just take the steel one and ignore the plastic, many times the plastic reel take the film just fine, and sometimes i find difficult time to load the film on the plastic reel so i swap to the steel one, i have 2 Paterson tanks and i used them [one of them] only twice, JOBO tank is no brainer, even a steel tank i have is way better than the Paterson one, not sure if i prefer it over JOBO but i am so comfortable to that JOBO tank, wish if i bought two of this tank before.
I develop only 120 for now, in the future i may do 35mm if i bought a 35mm film camera. |
#24
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Keeping everything together is never a problem for me as I always use a changing bag when loading a film spiral.
I have never found Paterson spirals any problem to load, either with 35mm or 120 size. My Son has a tank marketed by Jessops and although the spirals look much the same as those made by Paterson, they are very awkward to load. |
#25
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An earlier post mentioned rubbing the spirals in a Paterson reel with pencil lead, i e, graphite. I wonder if running the reals through a dishwasher would remove the discoloration - deposits? - that builds up. I very much doubt that the temperatures on the top rack would be damaging, and the drying aid used in many diswashers is actually a wetting agent, which in any case could be rinsed off.
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#26
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In relation to this post, how many favour central load tanks in preference to spiral? I prefer spiral, but have only used central load a couple of times.
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#27
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Me. I find it faster to load with zero hassle. SS was the choice of busy professionals for years.
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#28
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I prefer SS since first trying as a student, as the college pro did.
A chap, camera mechanic, who stood our local SH/flea market for some time and some camera fairs reckoned on spraying gently from not too close silicone furniture polish onto plastic spirals to aid smooth loading. (Off topic the same chap had two Olympus XA2s mounted together and cross wired for stereo). |
#29
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I would not use silicon furniture polish for smearing plastic reels. Who knows, how it will react with developer. Graphite is non reactive and is naturally slippery, it will provide good lubrication, but then not to much of it, as it can get loose and stick to emulsion when it is soft. The problem maybe is the fact, that 120 film is sometimes not stiff enough to get it into the spiral easy. Try this: unroll film first and separate it form the backing. The far end with the tape glued to the film is much stiffer and much easier to introduce into the spiral. The whole operation from "lights out" to "lights on" takes me about one minute. The rule is as always that the spiral has to be dry.
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#30
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Neither would I do that myself.
I do fold over the tape at the leader end after detaching and attach to the clip in the spiral center assuming it detaches cleanly from the backing paper. Some brands such as Agfa don't. After drying the tape still retains moisture so have it at the bottom weighted clip and snip off without touching. |
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