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#21
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I'm using continuous agitation, I'm not sure how the Orbital would perform with intermittent agitation as you would have to use over 350ml of chemicals to cover the film and even then I wouldnt be confident that the film was getting enough coverage.
Rob I did see that old post and tried adding an extra .75ml of solution A but it had no real effect to density. |
#22
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Mike, none of these type of developers (tanning/staining) give their best when used in a rotary processor. The constant agitation will soon oxidise the 'A' part of the dev and the accutance benefits of the semi-stand, or even normal agitation methods are negated. If you must use a rotary processor add at least 30% more solution A and run at the slowest speed possible. Ideally though, you should use a tank, even in preference to a tray, particularly if using the partial stand method. The amount of agitation recommended using this method is the MINIMAL amount needed, and it is important that the mixture is mixed thoroughly, and that means by inverting the tank. If you are using a tray, best to lift the neg from the liquid then mix well using a paddle or gloved fingers before re-immersing the neg and swirling for 15 secs or so. Given a fair water quality (and even then Prescysol is very forgiving) almost all problems can be brought down to agitation techniques.
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#23
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Forgot to mention Mike, but if you have any doubts about the dev please return it and I'll be glad to replace. Have to say that I get very very few complaints, though, and none at all from that particular batch!
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#24
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Thanks for getting back to me Peter.
I've got some Combi tanks that I usually use with Rodinal for dip and dunk so I'II try the remaining Prescysol in those. The only problem with using the Combi tanks is that they use 1000ml of chemicals. Last edited by Mike Meal; 29th December 2008 at 07:49 PM. |
#25
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Sorry to revive an old thread but I have a Prescysol query:
As I couldn't get any Ilford DD-X at my local Jessops (first time they were ever out of stock) I started to look on Silverprint's website. I came across Prescysol and remembered that I was going to try it but never did. There are two versions available. The original and the EF version. I understand from above posts that the EF is an extra fine version for smaller formats and the standard was intended for larger formats and that the EF trades off some staining in exchange for increased sharpness. I use mainly an equal mix of 35mm and 120 with just occasional use of 5x4. With that in mind, which version would be better for me to buy? I am thinking EF as I don't do a lot of 5x4. I can't even choose the cheapest option as they are both the same price! EDIT: One further question: Do I need an alkali fix with this developer? Steve. |
#26
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Steve, the EF will do fine. An alkaline environment helps the staining process, which is an integral part of a stained neg!. An acid stop/fixer will reduce the stain. You don't need a stop anyway, with these devs, just a quick water rinse. A lot of people do use an acid fix, and keep using it, (including Mr. Maclean) so presumably they are happy with what they get. Just don't mix the fixer too strong or over-fix.
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#27
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Thanks for the reply. I will order some EF today. I think I will get the alkaline fix as well - more for a practical reason.
My darkroom is in my roof space and I process films in the kitchen. If I am in the darkroom, my fixer is in the kitchen and if I am in the kitchen, the fixer is in the darkroom. If I keep a bottle of each in the right place it should halve the time I spend climbing up and down the loft ladder! Steve. |
#28
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Quote:
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#29
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Hey you two! If you want to have a punch-up over the merits or otherwise of fixers and spelling; then do it in public where we can all watch.
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#30
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Punch up? I LOVE Les.
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