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  #1  
Old 19th July 2009, 03:37 PM
Niall Bell Niall Bell is offline
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Default Solarisation with blue toner

I've been trying to reverse tone and solarise some prints using bue toner (as per Rudman's 'Toning Book')- but very frustratingly I can't get it to work.

According to Rudman long toing times with blue toner should create an 'iron-Sabatier' effect. Not here it doesn't.

I'm using Fotospeed's blue toner and have tried both FB and RC papers without any success.

I've spent the day trying this and am getting pretty frustrated. Has anyone else have any experience that could be shared?

Thanks,
Niall.
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  #2  
Old 19th July 2009, 08:35 PM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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I tried it myself a while ago, did'nt work, for me all I got was intence blue prints, and I tried with various blue toners,fotospeed,tetenal and some jessops blue I had in,but I don't see how it could work,I prefer to solarise traditionaly and blue tone the final print Richard
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  #3  
Old 18th August 2009, 10:37 AM
Timrudman Timrudman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niall Bell View Post
I've been trying to reverse tone and solarise some prints using bue toner (as per Rudman's 'Toning Book')- but very frustratingly I can't get it to work.

According to Rudman long toing times with blue toner should create an 'iron-Sabatier' effect. Not here it doesn't.

I'm using Fotospeed's blue toner and have tried both FB and RC papers without any success.

I've spent the day trying this and am getting pretty frustrated. Has anyone else have any experience that could be shared?

Thanks,
Niall.
It works OK Niall but as stated better with some papers and most definitely with some toners. Blue toners are not all the same and the Fotospeed one is not suited to this. The best is the FAC formula I gave in the book. This works really well and is the same as the Film Plus blue toner - now gone of course, and the same as Bill Rollinson used in his blue/sepia solarizing process.
Try this formula and you'll find it works.
Tim
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  #4  
Old 20th August 2009, 11:08 AM
Pete H Pete H is offline
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I've tried it too with Tetenal blue toner on both Adox Fineprint VC and Ilford MGIVRC. Both gave a a weak effect which shows up as a purplish-red metallic look in the shadows, but I couldn't get the sepia replacement that Tim shows in his book.

Keep trying!
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  #5  
Old 20th August 2009, 12:11 PM
Niall Bell Niall Bell is offline
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Tim,
Thanks for your reply- a useful piece of information. I'll see if I can prepare the toner as given in your book. From memory I think that the formula contains a component that’s hazardous (conc acid, perhaps?) which made me hesitate - I’ll look again tonight and perhaps ask a pharmacist to prepare if necessary.

If it works I'll post reply to that effect here.

On a separate issue:
I’m glad you’re running UK lith workshops although I was unsuccessful in getting a place - I hope the second workshop comes off. Clearly a UK market for your workshops.

In the meantime, keep up the good work re lith printing and issuing the periodic updates.

Pete, thanks for encouragement, I'll persevere.

Regards,

Niall.
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  #6  
Old 20th August 2009, 04:29 PM
Timrudman Timrudman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niall Bell View Post
Tim,
snip >>

If it works I'll post reply to that effect here.

snip >>
Niall.
IF it works? IF??! It works. trust me, I'm a doctor

It really does work and isn't difficult although you do need patience and long very toning times. (see Bill Rollinson's times, captioning his picture!!)
You can use overtoning or with extended clearing or with sepia, as in Blue chapter and on P127 & 8
Also some papers solarize more willingly than others. I MG111 & MG1V are OK, the Sterling/Fotospeed RCVC has gone and I haven't tried Fotospeed's current RCVC. Likewise the Kentmere papers mentioned have gone but may still be available.
I haven't tried Fomatone but is is an easy paper to induce solarization with using other methods so I expect it would be very good with this.
Also, RC is much easier than FB as the long toning causes staining with FB.
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  #7  
Old 20th August 2009, 08:46 PM
Niall Bell Niall Bell is offline
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Tim,
Me too, hence the scepticism!

I'm unwilling to have conc H2SO4 around the house- I have a darkroom, but no fume cupboard.

I'll see if one of the industrial/commercial chemist companies here in Aberdeen will prepare the Film Plus Toner solutions. Also I'll attempt overtoning/extended clearing etc.

Thanks very much for the further valuable advice re papers- it's much appreciated. I'd noticed the length of time required by Rollinson, and had been matching this when using the Fotospeed toner- but to no real avail. Hopefully there'll be some success now.

I shudder to think how many years you must have sent researching all this.

Thanks for your time.
Niall.
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  #8  
Old 15th March 2010, 01:33 PM
PaulD PaulD is offline
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I have had great results using the blue toner formula from Tim Rudman's toning book. Being a former chemist I like the DIY aspect and the choice of formulas give plenty of opportunity for different results.

This book is my Toning Bible and I am glad I have a copy as it is about impossible to find, unless you are willing to sell your soul.

Paul
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  #9  
Old 21st March 2010, 10:49 PM
Timrudman Timrudman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulD View Post
I have had great results using the blue toner formula from Tim Rudman's toning book. Being a former chemist I like the DIY aspect and the choice of formulas give plenty of opportunity for different results.

This book is my Toning Bible and I am glad I have a copy as it is about impossible to find, unless you are willing to sell your soul.

Paul
Thanks Paul.
Soon you (people) will be able to acquire this without soul selling I hope (the highest price I saw it for was $999.99! on Amazon).
I hope to finance a reprint myself soon and will keep FADU posted. If anyone wants to go on the mailing list please email me direct. here
I will post a thread when I know details for certain.
Tim
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  #10  
Old 22nd March 2010, 07:19 AM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timrudman View Post
Thanks Paul.
Soon you (people) will be able to acquire this without soul selling I hope (the highest price I saw it for was $999.99! on Amazon).
I hope to finance a reprint myself soon and will keep FADU posted. If anyone wants to go on the mailing list please email me direct. here
I will post a thread when I know details for certain.
Tim
That's good news indeed, I wish you every success with the venture.
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Regards
Dave
www.davids.org.uk
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