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> 510 Pyro development question |
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#1
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510 Pyro development question
Hi,
I am going to develop my first film after many years so I have forgotten a lot of stuff. I have a question about the precise way in which I develop. I am going to stand develop in 510 Pyro (made myself) Stop in 1/2 rec strength Kodak Indicator Stop Fix in Ilford Rapid Fixer What I am missing is some specifics so please help with some very basic questions. 1. Does film need pre-wetting in water before adding in 510 Pyro? If yes, how long and is agitation required? 2. After 510 Pyro do I just pour out and pour stop straight in or do I need to rinse with water? How long for stop? Do I need to agitate? 3. Again, after stop do I just pour out and pour fixer in or do I need an intermediate step with water? How long with fixer? Do I agitate? 4. After fixer I know I have to wash in water? How long? Can I just open Patterson tank and put it under the tap? I apologise if these seem real simple questions but I have had some trouble find answers to these basic questions of what exactly to do. Thanks in advance for your help. |
#2
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I don't use Pyro, but I use either rodinal or ID11, I do not wet my film first, in fact Ilforsd do not reccomend a pre wash, I pour out my developer around 10 seconds before he end, then at the end of developing time I pour in water, invert 10 times our out water then repeat, using stop bath pour agitate for 30 seconds then empty, pour in fixer and agitate for 1 minute, then with rapid fixer at 1/5 fix for further 2 minutes, 3 minutes in all, for wash 2 ways, put a short length of hose down centre and wash for 20 to 30 minutes or use the Ilford method, that is water at 20c pour into tank invert slowly 5 times empty then repeat with fresh water for 10 slow inversions, pour out and repeat for 20 inversions, and I like to repeat for 40 slow inversions, either method works well but the ilford method uses less water, but must be at 20C , and warm welcome to Fadu
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#3
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You will probably get many answers to your question?
I have not used 510 Pyro for some years so I am having trouble in remembering my process. 510 Pyro is a great developer but I did not like the stain colour which can be troublesome with multigrade paper. However I now use Pyrocat HD (semi-stand) which has many similarities. I alway pre-soak the film for 4 minutes, I use a plain water stop bath for 1 minute and Hypam fix. I wash all of my films for a minimum of 30 minutes in running water. I do a final soak for 4 minutes in distilled water with a few drops of photo flow added. Air dry the films in a cabinet. I get great negs.
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Cheers, Barry |
#4
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I am not sure what 1/2 rec strength is. Is rec short for recommended so you use whatever Kodak gives as the dilution but at half of this strength? Have I go that right?
As long as you are happy that after a lot of years you still have the recipe that used to work then home made Pyro( I take it that if the ingredients have been around a long time they do not deteriorate) may be fine but being conservative with a small "c" I might have been tempted to start with a more conventional manufacturer's developer Mike |
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I've used Bergger PMK Pyro fairly recently and with very good results.
Firstly, I gave a pre-wet of 5mins using rotary agitation. Secondly, I used and only use a water stop these days. There seems to be less risk of 'pinholes'. Thirdly, I used an alkaline fix fotospeed fx40. Fourthly I didn't re-soak in the developer to add extra stain as that theory appears to have been debunked. Fifthly, I washed for 30mins. And in my case, just pour in and pour out.
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MartyNL “Reaching a creative state of mind thru positive action is considered preferable to waiting for inspiration.” - Minor White, 1950 |
#6
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Search for 510 pyro on flickr there is a 510 pyro group. Ruediger Hartung has posted a film development chart and links to his blog all about 510 pyro.
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"Tea is surely the king of all drinks. It helps against the cold, it helps against the heat,against discomfort and sickness, against weariness and weakness". Heinrich Harrer. |
#7
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Thank you to all for your very helpful responses. There’s a lot of great info there for me to follow up.
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I have never seen those charts by the way, they are amazing work!
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#9
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Only just found this post.
A bit late in the day, but the following channel on Youtube will be very interesting I think. He has a few videos about 510 Pyro. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dExTezEVBCY Advert comes up first, skip that if it bores you. Main things though, Phenidone is now recommended to be 0.375g instead of the old recommendation of 0.25g. You may have the old formula. No chemical stop bath, just plain water. And it has to be an Alkaline fixer. Otherwise you will lose the stain that you are trying to put onto the film. He also has a video there on making your Phenidone last for a long time by mixing it in Propylene Glycol, this also makes it easy to measure very small amounts. Bit late but hopefully useful. Cheers.
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It will all be over by Christmas. |
#10
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Marty, by how much do you reduce your film development times for rotary processsing? I think I read somewhere that Jobo recommend sticking to standard development times - provided the film is pre-soaked. I'm interested in using my CPE2 for film developing from now on. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Richard |
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