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  #11  
Old 23rd January 2015, 10:13 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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hmm so if you really wanted to get back to basics rodinol stand development, water, fixer, water+drop of detergent?

Im pretty lazy and tight, so this inrests me alot lol
Depends what you mean by detergent. Washing-up liquid may be similar to wetting agent but I suspect that most if not all detergents contain additional ingredients that will not be good and the other problem is how to be sure what a detergent's correct ratio to water is for film.

A container of Ilford wetting agent costs relatively little and at a ratio of 1ml wetting agent to 200ml of water means that a bottle last virtually forever.

I'd buy proprietary wetting agent if it were me

Mike
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Old 24th January 2015, 08:06 AM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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what papers do you use, or are these scans? if you dont mind me asking.
I use Kentmere VC select RC fine lustre and these are scans of the prints,
Richard
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  #13  
Old 24th January 2015, 08:22 AM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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hmm so if you really wanted to get back to basics rodinol stand development, water, fixer, water+drop of detergent?

Im pretty lazy and tight, so this inrests me alot lol
Jimmy,
Rodinol stand development works for some negatives but not for all, I would not reccomend it until you have more experiance, and for the gritty type of prints you are talking about it would not work, I have tried it and I find it gives slightly soft negatives, It works for Summer type shots,I have used Rodinal for many years now and I suggest sticking to 1/50, that is. 10 ml of Rodinal to 490ml of water, your Rodinal will go a long way, and remember Rodinal keeps forever, I have developed a film from Rodinal in a glass bottle, it must have been over 20 years old. it was as black as night and almost treacle like, but the film was perfect, agitate it for the first minute then for 5 seconds every 30, Yes use water for stop, fix and you can quite happily use a drop of washing up liqued as a wetting agent, with no ill effect, I will probably be accused of heresay for saying this., but I have done so for 30 years or more and my negatives from that time are yet to show any ill effects, It was a suggested method many years ago, but if you DO decide to try stand development then do some looking as there are many diffrent methods, such as stand, for some films, semi stand for others, I prefer to use the normal method, less chance of dissapointment with the final result
Richard
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  #14  
Old 24th January 2015, 09:09 AM
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richardw richardw is offline
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You can reduce your costs even more if you actually buy chemicals to make your own developer rather than buying ready made products simply because they are cheaper than some other products.

This way you can make up better developers than the ones sold generally and still save money.

richardw
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  #15  
Old 24th January 2015, 11:41 AM
peterlg peterlg is offline
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Jimmy, you do right in simplifying procedures. I think many here (including me) would advise that stop is just superfluous since 3 rapid rinses with tap water will do the same!
And as to wetting agent: I stopped using it a long time ago because it makes foam. And when you get back a couple days later the dev tank will still make foam. Instead, I buy de-ionized (distilled) water at the supermarket, (1.5€ for 5liters) and use this for the final twenty inversions of Ilford's rinsing procedure.
peter
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Old 24th January 2015, 11:57 AM
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CambsIan CambsIan is offline
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Hi Jimmy,

De-ionized water also works for me in the final rinse plus I use it to mix my D76. A bit of a win win for me.

Ian
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  #17  
Old 24th January 2015, 02:41 PM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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I find that if I don't use a drop or two of wetting agent,that is Washing up liqued I get drying marks with 120, No problems with foam, I just add a drop or two to the final rinse, pour it in, and pour it out, give the reel with the film in a shake and hang film to dry,
Richard
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Old 24th January 2015, 02:46 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Peter makes an excellent point about wetting agent and tanks. I'd use the wetting agent for the final rinse but in a separate container. Wetting agent can contaminate reels and tanks so it is quicker and easier to pull the film from the reel and then dunk the film into a separate container of agent than to pour it into the tank and then have to scrub the tank and reel clean.

Mike
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Old 24th January 2015, 05:01 PM
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MartyNL MartyNL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray View Post
Peter makes an excellent point about wetting agent and tanks. I'd use the wetting agent for the final rinse but in a separate container. Wetting agent can contaminate reels and tanks so it is quicker and easier to pull the film from the reel and then dunk the film into a separate container of agent than to pour it into the tank and then have to scrub the tank and reel clean.

Mike
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  #20  
Old 24th January 2015, 05:22 PM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray View Post
Peter makes an excellent point about wetting agent and tanks. I'd use the wetting agent for the final rinse but in a separate container. Wetting agent can contaminate reels and tanks so it is quicker and easier to pull the film from the reel and then dunk the film into a separate container of agent than to pour it into the tank and then have to scrub the tank and reel clean.

Mike
I like to keep things simple, I have all of my photographic life poured the dilute wetting agent.washing up liqued into the tank, then poured it out, I have never scrubbed a tank or reel, ,maybe a quick rinse under a running tap, if I think about it,but more often than not I take the film/films out of the reels, hang the film up and put the tank upside down to dry, with the reels stored seperately, I use Patterson tanks/reels, I still have my very first patterson system 4 (not the current super system 4) and still use it, and I have yet to have any problems using this method, so, for me, keep it simple, wash, final rinse, shake water of film and dry, every so often run a pencil around the spirels and away I go, worked for me for 40 years.
Richard
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