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  #21  
Old 17th November 2016, 11:21 PM
Svend Svend is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray View Post
Despite that a lot of the newcomers and it is usually the newcomers there, still seek the magic bullet of that unique "film and developer" combination which delivers nirvana.

Actually there is such a combination for every film but wild horses will not drag it out of me.

"It's all mine, mine I tell you"

He exits stage left with a diabolical gleam in his eyes and to the sound of thunder and flashes of lightning with assorted villagers chasing him with flaming torches

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Come on Mike -- name your price. Everyone has a price. Perhaps I can convince young Justin to give you Nova Scotia back. Will that do it?

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  #22  
Old 18th November 2016, 12:21 PM
big paul big paul is offline
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welcome back to the fold Larry , and Mike the other answer you could give is, I can tell you but I will have to kill you :-)

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  #23  
Old 19th November 2016, 08:53 AM
JOReynolds JOReynolds is offline
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Originally Posted by John King View Post
Therer is another analogue site - APUG, based I think in New Zealand, but mainly with American contributors and I will say it some of the drivel they come out with beggars belief. They always seem to think they know better than the various companies that produce the materials they use.
There is a notable exception among APUG contributors - Photo Engineer or PE, who I think used to work for Eastman Rochester. He is particularly knowledgeable on Kodak products
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  #24  
Old 19th November 2016, 09:21 AM
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GoodOldNorm GoodOldNorm is offline
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I love messing about with different developers but the one I keep coming back to is Pyrocat HD. At the moment I am using 510 Pyro, I like the fact that it is easy to mix from stock and it has a really long shelf life, I have been using my present bottle for 18 months now and even though it looks like crude oil it still works as well as the first day it was mixed. There is no substitute for good technique, know your equipment and fine tune your working methods. A diligent photographer will get good results from almost any film/developer combination. Take photographs and print them, look at the results and ask yourself "what could I have done to improve my work". This may sound like a simplistic approach but it works, you cannot be lazy and just follow other peoples film/dev, camera/lens combinations, it takes: time, hard work, thought and effort to become proficient and ultimately satisfied. I am still learning and working, sometimes I am satisfied but never smug.
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  #25  
Old 21st November 2016, 03:21 PM
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photomi7ch photomi7ch is offline
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Thank you Neil for the reassuring words.

You have some good looking images there using FD10 Kevin.

Thanks Norm for reminding me about 510 Pyro I don't know why I had not thought of it.

I agree that there is no substitute for a good solid method when processing negatives.

I take it no one has used Tetenal ultrafine?
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  #26  
Old 22nd November 2016, 11:44 AM
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Martin Aislabie Martin Aislabie is online now
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There is a lot of hot air spoken and written on forums about "magic" developers.

Despite the claims, sadly they don't exist.

Pick one, any one and stick to it.

I, personally, would stick to one of the main manufacturers and go for a general purpose one

Any of them will produce good results - any problems you experience are much more likely to come from the photographer than his equipment or materials.

My recommendation is that you put your efforts in to developing your technical skill and photographic style.

I am a big admirer of Ansel Adams but he didn't produce such a fabulous body of work just because he had a great film/dev combo

For what its worth, I use ID11 - diluted 1+1 and used as a one shot.

Martin
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  #27  
Old 22nd November 2016, 05:48 PM
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maltklaus maltklaus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Aislabie View Post
I, personally, would stick to one of the main manufacturers and go for a general purpose one
Wise words. Special developers might be good for special films (like technical films), but for most general uses a good, standard developer that has been well-researched will yield the most consistent results and work with any standard film you throw at it.
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  #28  
Old 22nd November 2016, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Aislabie View Post
There is a lot of hot air spoken and written on forums about "magic" developers.

Despite the claims, sadly they don't exist.

Pick one, any one and stick to it.

I, personally, would stick to one of the main manufacturers and go for a general purpose one

Any of them will produce good results - any problems you experience are much more likely to come from the photographer than his equipment or materials.

My recommendation is that you put your efforts in to developing your technical skill and photographic style.

I am a big admirer of Ansel Adams but he didn't produce such a fabulous body of work just because he had a great film/dev combo

For what its worth, I use ID11 - diluted 1+1 and used as a one shot.

Martin
I wholeheartedly agree with you there Martin, far too much fuss made about the ideal developer. Like yourself I'm an ID11 user.
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  #29  
Old 23rd November 2016, 01:49 AM
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I use the original 1927 kodak D76 stock for Tri x that i make myself
I dont think there is a film D76 cant get a printable neg out of
Paddy
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  #30  
Old 23rd November 2016, 12:45 PM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Aislabie View Post
There is a lot of hot air spoken and written on forums about "magic" developers.

Despite the claims, sadly they don't exist.

Pick one, any one and stick to it.

I, personally, would stick to one of the main manufacturers and go for a general purpose one

Any of them will produce good results - any problems you experience are much more likely to come from the photographer than his equipment or materials.

My recommendation is that you put your efforts in to developing your technical skill and photographic style.

I am a big admirer of Ansel Adams but he didn't produce such a fabulous body of work just because he had a great film/dev combo

For what its worth, I use ID11 - diluted 1+1 and used as a one shot.

Martin
I could not agree more Martin, I stick with just 2 developers, RO9 for 90% of my films and Rollei RHS for the time when i really need fine grain, best advice ever given is to stick to one or two film developers and get to know them as old friends
Richard
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