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#21
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Svend |
#22
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welcome back to the fold Larry , and Mike the other answer you could give is, I can tell you but I will have to kill you :-)
www.essexcockney.com |
#23
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#24
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Film developer
I love messing about with different developers but the one I keep coming back to is Pyrocat HD. At the moment I am using 510 Pyro, I like the fact that it is easy to mix from stock and it has a really long shelf life, I have been using my present bottle for 18 months now and even though it looks like crude oil it still works as well as the first day it was mixed. There is no substitute for good technique, know your equipment and fine tune your working methods. A diligent photographer will get good results from almost any film/developer combination. Take photographs and print them, look at the results and ask yourself "what could I have done to improve my work". This may sound like a simplistic approach but it works, you cannot be lazy and just follow other peoples film/dev, camera/lens combinations, it takes: time, hard work, thought and effort to become proficient and ultimately satisfied. I am still learning and working, sometimes I am satisfied but never smug.
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"Tea is surely the king of all drinks. It helps against the cold, it helps against the heat,against discomfort and sickness, against weariness and weakness". Heinrich Harrer. |
#25
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Thank you Neil for the reassuring words.
You have some good looking images there using FD10 Kevin. Thanks Norm for reminding me about 510 Pyro I don't know why I had not thought of it. I agree that there is no substitute for a good solid method when processing negatives. I take it no one has used Tetenal ultrafine?
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Mitch http://photomi7ch.blogspot.com/ If you eliminate the impossible whatever remains no matter how improbable must be the truth. |
#26
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There is a lot of hot air spoken and written on forums about "magic" developers.
Despite the claims, sadly they don't exist. Pick one, any one and stick to it. I, personally, would stick to one of the main manufacturers and go for a general purpose one Any of them will produce good results - any problems you experience are much more likely to come from the photographer than his equipment or materials. My recommendation is that you put your efforts in to developing your technical skill and photographic style. I am a big admirer of Ansel Adams but he didn't produce such a fabulous body of work just because he had a great film/dev combo For what its worth, I use ID11 - diluted 1+1 and used as a one shot. Martin |
#27
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Wise words. Special developers might be good for special films (like technical films), but for most general uses a good, standard developer that has been well-researched will yield the most consistent results and work with any standard film you throw at it.
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may the light be with you! FB/Twitter/flickr @maltklaus |
#28
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Cheers Vincent - Not afraid of the dark |
#29
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I use the original 1927 kodak D76 stock for Tri x that i make myself
I dont think there is a film D76 cant get a printable neg out of Paddy |
#30
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Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
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