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> negative or slide |
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#1
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negative or slide
was thinking of getting some colour 120 film as a little side project to my B+w work. wont be developing myself, but will treat myself to the occasional shop develop,scan and will orint the odd frame non digitally hopefully if not too expensive.
so what should i get negative or slide? im a bit confused |
#2
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slides being positive require special paper to print direct to paper and it's no longer being made. So you won't be printing slides yourself unless you do it digitally.
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#3
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I thought you could still print slides if you use an intermediate negative step - does anyone actually do this?
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#4
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You can do that, but there's little point if you haven't made the original exposure yet. The OP is in that position, and given the difficulty of printing slides these days (unless you use digital methods) the choice would have to be negative film. Having said that, a projected 120 slide can look amazing!
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#5
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As said above. If you want to print chemical way it has to be negative film. As DaveP said theoretically it is possible to print from slides via an internegative, photographing the slide on negative film with a macro setup that is. I said theoretically because the internegative film passed away long ago, as far as I know. I made some experimentation with Portra 160 as interneg film with a varying degree of satisfaction, very fussy procedure and I'm not sure if it's worth apart if one already has some old slide and wants to make a print from it.
Cheers, M.- |
#6
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Quote:
Ordinary colour negative film yields awful results as an internegative unless used with contrast masking. To scan well, positive (slide) film needs to be exposed to within 1/2 stop. Meter off a grey card or use incident-light metering. Negative colour film scans nicely using the initial settings recommended by the manufacturer and gives greater exposure latitude - best to bracket or, if in doubt, over-expose a bit. Different brands of film need different initial scan settings, requiring some experimentation. |
#7
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Quote:
Yeah like i said, i wont be doing any colour printing work myself so i gather theres two options print digital- still the same question what is best slide or negative for best image quality? (assuming top notch scanning) print chemically from a professional printers - ive read both neg and slide can be done, but the sensible option is use a negative. |
#8
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Fact is that most labs today scan to print digitally. If you want custom hand printing then its expensive.
Modern colour negative films are designed with scanning in mind so the orange printing mask is not as heavy as it used to be which makes scanning them easier. So slide or negative is a moot point. Both can scan very well. If you aiming at drum scanner then I'd say slide but most labs don't drum scan and their scanners and experience will predominately be with negative films. Also your subject contrast range may well be better suited to the dynamic range that negatives have. So on balance its probably better to use negative film unless you really know what you're doing with slide film exposures. The benefit of slide is that you can see what the colours in it are if you are scanning it yourself whereas you can't with negatives. And some colour negatives are better suited to skin tones although I rekon that goes out the window as soon as you put the film into a scanner, unless the scanner has been very well calibrated for the particular film being scanned. And that comes back to the point above in that most labs will have worked out good settings for scanning each film type. At least they should have if they are a good lab. So its your call which way you go with it. Neg or Slide, both are capable of very high quality output if handled correctly. Last edited by Argentum; 25th April 2015 at 01:01 PM. |
#9
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In my experience it's WAY easier to get a decent scan from a correctly exposed piece of transparency film than it is to get a decent scan of colour note converted with satisfactory colour. It's a pain in the arse.
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#10
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true if you don't know how to adjust colour curves when doing your own scans. But if you are letting the lab do the scans then they will have it sorted if they are any good. And in that case its more about subject dynamic range being more closely matched to film dynamic range and the colour matching of skin, landscape tones or other subject tones that you prefer in any particular stock such as portra or some other film.
Also slides have much higher density which can cause you problems depending on your own scanner and whether it handles that density. Fact is there is learning curve to all this if you are doing it yourself and slide or neg can produce excellent results if you get it right. |
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