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> Mono Exposure using Filters |
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#1
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Mono Exposure using Filters
From starting out using a 35mm point and shoot Canon! I realise that I have been complacent on correct exposure. eg a K8 registers just a half stop difference with TTL metering but the filter factor reads 1.5 stops! The advice is test and so far I find 2/3rd - 1 stop max. Not so good news for all who are trying to be within 1/3 stop!
As this weather is preventing further testing, any further experiences you'all many thanks, Hughes. |
#2
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Unscrew the filter, take a TTL reading without it, screw the filter back on, and take the picture. If it is still there!
Alternately, leave the filter on, use a hand-held meter and adjust by the filter factor.. If you are doing all or most of the photography with the same filter on, simply adjust the ISO of the hand- held meter to match the filter-factor. Alan |
#3
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I shoot in black & white pretty much exclusively nowadays, and use all the various filters for mono, ie. yellow, orange, red and green.
My own tests have shown my TTL meter will read correctly with a yellow filter attached (which requires 1 stop). However with the red filter on (an additional 3 stops), it will underexpose by around a stop and a half if you set the camera accordingly. If I wish to use this filter, I can just take the meter reading with it on the lens, and then whatever reading the camera indicates, I increase manually by the required amount. Alternatively, as Alan has mentioned, you could meter without any filter and then increase the exposure accordingly with the filter attached.
__________________
Carl. |
#4
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Thanks to Carl & Alan, but I think Alan has missed the point a little. Why then is the Horsman Film plane meter on a 5/4 only advising to adjust 1/2 stop! for a K8, When manually one would take the advice on the filter rim 3 X 1.5 or 1 1/2 stops! What zone equates to Yellow 8?- 4.5 ?
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#5
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Hughes,
I am afraid you have lost me.. Alan |
#6
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I have always found that meters are easily confused by filters.
I therefore meter without a filter attached. I then fit the filter and add the extra stops required for the particular filter being used. |
#7
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Quote:
To be honest with you, I know nothing about the Horsman plane meter, but I do know TTL meters react differently when trying to take readings with a filter attached, particularly with a strong filter which may require 3 or more stops of additional exposure such as a red filter or even a neutral density filter. Yellow filters generally speaking require 1 stop, or perhaps 1 stop and a half if it's a stronger one. If your meter is only saying you need to add half a stop, then you'd run the risk of underexposing. On my own cameras, they appear to cope well when reading with yellow filters attached - I've made readings with and without the filter attached just to compare. However, with the orange it would underexpose by around half a stop and with the red it would be around one and a half stops if I were to set the camera accordingly. Perhaps it may be worth actually doing some test shots with the filter attached and going off what the meter is suggesting. Then removing the filter, take the reading and add the filter factor onto your camera settings (one and a half stops in your case) and take the same shot. Once the film is developed, you'd be able to see on the negatives if there's any discrepancy with the meter.
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Carl. |
#8
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Quote:
I usually change the setting on my exposure meter to take account of the filter factor; and then forget to reset it when I change the filter of film back. |
#9
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Meters are often affected by colour so metering through a filter may not be accurate. My OM cameras routinely reckon a three-stop red filter only needs one stop more exposure. The advice to take a reading without the filter, then adjust for the filter factor, is good.
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#10
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Quote:
Not quite so simple with a TTL metering system but with a bit of experimenting you should be able to alter the ISO setting or exposure compensation to bring the meter back into giving a correct exposure. Steve. |
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