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  #1  
Old 2nd March 2010, 01:16 PM
HanWen HanWen is offline
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Default Rollei filters

Hi, I have a few questions regarding Rollei Bay III filters.
What is the H-1 filter for? Can I use it in place of the UV?
Is there such a thing as a Rollei Bay III multicoated UV filter?
Which red filter should I get for effective infra red?
Thank you.
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Old 2nd March 2010, 03:48 PM
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Phil Phil is offline
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Hi HanWen - welcome to FADU!
The H1 seems to have been a haze filter for Xenar and Tessar lenses, not Planar, Xenotar and Sonnar - indeed the Rollie accessories manual for 1960 states it is uneccessary
http://www.urmonas.net/manuals/rolle...ac-acc-60.html
Not sure about a multicoated UV filter - you'll probably find that B&W make one in Bay III mount, but the old Rollei filters are superb anyway, and much cheaper.
As for infrared, well B&W used to make a suitable filter, however I made my own, mounting some Ilford SFX filter in an old Hoya mount! it worked a treat.
Phil
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Old 2nd March 2010, 04:10 PM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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Welcome Hanwen, An infra red filter must be matched to the film you want to use. You can buy converter rings to change standard screw filters to Bay III fitting.
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Dave
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Old 5th March 2010, 06:32 PM
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Martin Aislabie Martin Aislabie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HanWen View Post
Hi, I have a few questions regarding Rollei Bay III filters.
What is the H-1 filter for? Can I use it in place of the UV?
Is there such a thing as a Rollei Bay III multicoated UV filter?
Which red filter should I get for effective infra red?
Thank you.
Robert White sell a B+W UV Filter for a Rollei Bay III £42:00 + VAT & delivery - http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=275

Robert White sells most of the B+W Filter range, the common stuff is in stock but the more obscure needs to be ordered - usually 6 ~8 weeks. However, unless stated the Filters as a special order item, they should be available from stock. If you want something that he doesn't list it too can be specially ordered if you have the B+W code for it.

Martin
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Old 5th March 2010, 08:09 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Hi Hanwen and welcome to FADU. Let's us know a bit about your equipment and photographic interests. It's a great way for us to get a picture of you.

Anything that makes an internet club's members more real and less virtual is valuable.

Mike
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  #6  
Old 6th March 2010, 03:03 AM
HanWen HanWen is offline
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My thanks to all for the welcome and information. I've recently acquired a Rolleiflex and it feels somewhat like coming full circle for me. The first camera I used was my father's Rolleicord. That was in 1958! I still have this camera but sadly the lens has fungus and the slow shutters typically stick. I'm not overly concerned about equipment though I do enjoy the pleasure of working with well designed and well made gear to get the results I want. So, some of the cameras I have been photographing with have been the original Canon F1, Nikons (F2s, FEs, Nikormats), Linhof Kardan 4x5, Toyo Field 4x5, and in the recent few years, Fuji GX 680 and Mamiya 7s. Don't know if anyone else here ever felt like this but I feel like I've worked myself into a corner and would like to simplify my approach and process and go about with just one camera with a fixed lens. So I thought (like Jojo!) I'd get back to where I once belonged - and that's with a Rollei. I'd like to work more intuitively and less technically as well.

The Rollei UV filter, I was asking about was just to protect the lens. I generally don't like using lens caps when I'm working. By the way does anyone know if a close up filter like the Heliopan or the Rolleinar would get the Rolleiflex to focus closer for tighter portraits for example? And if so which one is suitable for say a head shot?

Thanks again!
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Old 8th March 2010, 08:57 AM
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Hi HanWen - I can speak from experience of Rolleinars - they are fantastic. I've got the I and the III - the I will allow you to do a head and upper-torso shot with room to spare; the III will get you to about 20cm close! The II should get you to a full head - if you google around you'll find the relative focus distances.
They're also thoughtfully designed with parallax compensation on the Heidosmat viewing lens, so you don't have to worry about that.
I love mine. If you shot them wide open in a portrait you get fantastic out of focus areas; if you stop them down, you get an extraordnary sharpness and if you open them up and rack the focus out to near enough infinity on a close subject you get effects that are remarkably similar to early Pictorialism!
Phil
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