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  #21  
Old 4th December 2019, 06:02 PM
JimW JimW is offline
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Quote:
may be unrelated to Steve Sherman's minimal agitation
Sounds like it's unrelated. It's the nearest thing I could find to a long time developing. (as in hours of development, rather than minutes of developing.)
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  #22  
Old 4th December 2019, 07:07 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is online now
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As far as I can see the one benefit of overnight development might arise if you had no time in the rest of the day to develop for say 45 mins - 1 hour and you needed to go to bed, having only time to load tank and prepare developer. However there are two potential drawbacks.

1. You need the time in the morning for dumping and then fixing
2. Leaving a tank undisturbed for 7-8 hours may run a risk of the known but OK not inevitable consequences of not applying any movement to the liquid for that many hours.

verene, has the person in question ever re-appeared since showing you his prints from this overnight stand development procedure to allow you to raise the matter with that person again?

Mike
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  #23  
Old 5th December 2019, 01:46 PM
verene verene is offline
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Sorry could not come on yesterday. Thanks for all the replies and helpful advice, some looks very interesting and I shall do a bit more digging before I jump in a give it a try.
As for the customer, no I am afraid that I have not seen him since but he only comes in every few months. But indeed we do get 'I shall have to kill you' types...
As for the quality of the prints, we do get to see quite a lot and although I try to ignore the subject matter or 'artistic quality' of what I get shown, at the end of the day fine grains, mid-tones and details are pretty empirical.
I do have some doubt as to whether he was pulling a fast one and just showed me some large format panF print, especially as how reluctant he was to get into details which is what nags me. I am of course female and I am afraid it is not unheard of that some male customers might show off a little or see whether I would swallow a fast one, not expecting actual technical queries which would explain his reluctance to go into details.
Nonetheless, I will read up on the helpful links and the plan is to use pinhole if the weather is ok this week-end and duplicate all shots, then process one set normally and the other overnight and then compare. Might as well find out!
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  #24  
Old 5th December 2019, 02:28 PM
big paul big paul is offline
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it wasn't around April was it . if you want fine grain sharp contrasty pictures use Ilford delta 100 and dev in DD-X



essexcockney.com
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  #25  
Old 5th December 2019, 02:38 PM
B&W Neil's Avatar
B&W Neil B&W Neil is offline
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Verene,

If I were to start going down this road, which is unlikely because I am happy with what I get from HC110 @ 1:63 - I would use one of the developers that has a track record of working at dilutions that are outside of the manufacture's recommendations.

The two that spring to mind are Rodinal and HC110, I am sure there are others but these are the two that I have used successfuly for 1 hour stand dev.

So I would say start with what is reecommended (unofficially) for 1 hour stand develpmen and work from there.

All the best with your experiemnets and do post back here on your results.

Have fun

Neil.




Quote:
Originally Posted by verene View Post
Sorry could not come on yesterday. Thanks for all the replies and helpful advice, some looks very interesting and I shall do a bit more digging before I jump in a give it a try.
As for the customer, no I am afraid that I have not seen him since but he only comes in every few months. But indeed we do get 'I shall have to kill you' types...
As for the quality of the prints, we do get to see quite a lot and although I try to ignore the subject matter or 'artistic quality' of what I get shown, at the end of the day fine grains, mid-tones and details are pretty empirical.
I do have some doubt as to whether he was pulling a fast one and just showed me some large format panF print, especially as how reluctant he was to get into details which is what nags me. I am of course female and I am afraid it is not unheard of that some male customers might show off a little or see whether I would swallow a fast one, not expecting actual technical queries which would explain his reluctance to go into details.
Nonetheless, I will read up on the helpful links and the plan is to use pinhole if the weather is ok this week-end and duplicate all shots, then process one set normally and the other overnight and then compare. Might as well find out!
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"The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance." Aristotle

Neil Souch - www.mono-inthedark.co.uk

Last edited by B&W Neil; 5th December 2019 at 02:41 PM.
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  #26  
Old 8th December 2019, 09:50 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
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Iíve tried this today. I didnít want to have to fix and wash in the morning, so I left the tank for 8 hours during the day. I used HP5 rated at 320. The developer was ID11, purely because I had some available. I diluted it 1+3, and used 600ml in a Paterson universal tank. In order to ensure even development, I gave the tank an initial 60secs agitation consisting of 10secs rotation and 50secs inversion. The chemicals started at 20c, and the ambient temperature varied between 18 and 20c throughout the period.
The negatives are drying, but there are printable images. There is what appears to be quite a dense overall fogging. In that respect, HC110 would be a better choice. Iíll report back once Iíve tried printing.
Alex.


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  #27  
Old 9th December 2019, 07:15 AM
John King John King is offline
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Apart from that I cannot see the point. Is it an excuse to throw another couple of cans down your throat and then go to bed?

Or just plain laziness?...…...Then thinking about it...…..

Any other development time than that given by the developer manufacturer will only have minimal improvement - unless it is acting like a high acutance developer (Rodinal/Neofin) where the developer, because it is not disturbed/agitated for a relatively long period compared to other developers. During this time the developer covering areas of highlight, quickly work to exhaustion, whilst those in the shadows continue to work on for a while and this may reduce contrast to get an easily printed neg.

This is how you get the 'edge effect' making the image look sharper. The unsharp mask used by digital software makes use of the same technique
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  #28  
Old 9th December 2019, 07:01 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
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Iíve printed two images and placed them in the Discussion Gallery. Iím not that impressed by them. All of the frames are printable, but most have an effect whereby certain areas of the negative have a metallic sheen which seems to occur in the shadows. This is a brassy colour. Itís similar to a fixing problem, but only affects the less dense areas. You can see how it prints in the lower left of the second (landscape oriented) print. It is similar to solarisation. I intend trying again with HC110 which produces less chemical fogging. Iím think that a dilution of 1+99 should do. That means I can use 6ml of concentrate in a total volume of 600ml.
Alex


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  #29  
Old 16th December 2019, 01:00 PM
verene verene is offline
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Thanks for trying those. The images are 'interesting' and to some extent what I would have expected in theory but definitely not like what I was shown. Sorry I have been a touch runned off my feet with the run up to Christmas but I have amassed all the stuff I need to give it a whirl over the break. Will keep you posted (and I have now managed to log into fadu on my phone, small progresses)
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  #30  
Old 16th December 2019, 02:19 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
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This is what the negatives look like
Alex


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