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Old 12th December 2021, 08:44 PM
Negative Negative is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2021
Posts: 1
Default Another New One ;)

Just signed up.

I`m just in the process of buying a house and building a darkroom so figured this would be a good place to discuss and gain knowledge from experienced developers

I have a Jobo CPE/TBE and a Rondinax 35U so wish to get more into continuous agitation methods.

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Old 12th December 2021, 10:34 PM
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MartyNL MartyNL is offline
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: based in The Netherlands
Posts: 3,332

Hello and welcome to the forum.
The very best of luck with the darkroom build.

“Reaching a creative state of mind thru positive action
is considered preferable to waiting for inspiration.”
- Minor White, 1950
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Old 13th December 2021, 12:42 AM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Daventry, Northants
Posts: 8,935

Hi Negative and welcome to FADU It will seem strange to have to refer to you as Negative. If you have a first name and are willing to give it to us at the bottom of each post then this might be better.

If you can build a dedicated darkroom in the house then that's great. I converted a spare bedroom that had both hot and cold running water piped in and frankly I can't now conceive of managing any other way

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Old 13th December 2021, 08:47 AM
John King John King is offline
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: County Durham
Posts: 3,291

Unlike Mike I don't have the luxury of built in running water, but I have the next best thing. Directly opposite the spare bedroom I use as the darkroom is the bathroom and it is only 3 or 4 steps from one to the other. I have made a removable table that sits over the bath to support the print washer without risking it damaging the bath. If you do this there is a very slight risk of staining. If this happens I have found domestic bleach will remove the marks and not damage the surface of the bath. In 7 years I have had one instance. (Bleach will also clean up stained developing dishes too!)

If t'other half needs to use the loo she has the one off the hallway downstairs.

To ensure the passage carpet remains unstained when I go from one room to the other I use a temporary strip of industrial polythene sheeting about 3mm thick and that works OK for me. If you want a darkroom badly enough you will always find a way around obstacles.

Mine is painted matt white emulsion which allows maximum light reflection from the safelights without giving any 'hotspots' and it they get splashed they are easily covered over with fresh emulsion

You will need plenty of sockets as well. I have added 3 x doubles about 18" above the workbench and they all get used at once occasionally. It all makes for workable setup.

Last edited by John King; 13th December 2021 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 13th December 2021, 12:35 PM
Terry S Terry S is offline
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Southend on Sea, Essex, England, UK
Posts: 3,757

Hi and welcome to the forum 'Negative' / 'Insert your name here', from 'Where ever' you are.

Terry S
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Old 13th December 2021, 03:32 PM
Nat Polton Nat Polton is offline
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 747

My set up is similar to Johns. Box bedroom/darkroom, no plumbing, bathroom opposite.

I only have the one 240v a.c. mains socket to supply everything.

So I have to watch what I plug in at the same time.

Although centrally heated I have a 2000watt oil filled heater, 300watt dish heater and 100watt enlarger transformer.

Plus small stuff like separate electrical thermostat for the dish heater, safe lights, and of course the wireless.

The big items add up to 2400 watts.

Using the formula Power = Amps x Volts the total comes to 10 amps on one socket. Plus the small stuff.

So I must be getting close to the maximum thirteen amps on the one socket.

Worth while counting up your power consumption and not depending too much on adding lots of multiplug extensions.

Hope this gives you some food for thought.

And by the way,welcome.
It will all be over by Christmas.
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Old 13th December 2021, 07:42 PM
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skellum skellum is offline
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Isle of Lewis
Posts: 1,330

Like others here I've made a lot of prints in 'dry' darkrooms. Mix chemicals elsewhere, hold prints in a soak tray until you have a couple ready to transport to the wash area. Dumping used chemicals into a bucket is good- you're less likely to spill them than you are carrying an open tray from one room to another for disposal.
I now have a piped darkroom, by tapping into the supply to the en-suite next door. It speeds up both set-up and clean-up and the extra convenience means I get more done in a session.
If possible I would definitely recommend a fully plumbed set-up.
I have two enlargers, a light box, couple of safe-lights, and an exposure meter. However, there is never a time when everything is on at once, so I'm comfortable having 4 double sockets in the room. I only print black and white, where temperature control is nowhere near as critical as Colour. As a result I've never felt the need for things like dishwarmers, and my darkroom is never particularly cold anyway.
Good luck with the project.
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Old 14th December 2021, 03:23 PM
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David Lingham David Lingham is offline
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: cardiff
Posts: 454

Welcome to the forum. My own darkroom occupies about a third of our garage. On my website there is a brief account of its construction including a few pictures. here
David Lingham
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Old 14th December 2021, 08:56 PM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Jersey Channel Islands
Posts: 5,433

Hello and welcome to Fafu, I am a returning member as I haven't been able to be around for a while
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Old 17th December 2021, 09:30 PM
snusmumriken snusmumriken is offline
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: UK
Posts: 159

I built my darkroom shed from scratch on a concrete base. Floor of Stirling board over 3x4" frame. Wall and roof panels made from a sandwich of Stirling board (outside), 3" Kingspan insulation, MDF inside. Whole thing covered in breathable membrane, then larch lap boards (walls) and corrugated metal sheets (roof). 4 years old now, very happy with it.

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