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  #71  
Old 9th January 2021, 03:34 PM
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Thank you all for your positive comments.

Have to say that I enjoyed this as can do it in the house and even get my other half involved, already considering the different possibilities in the summer while out and about.

One of the first things that my wife said to me when she saw the results was "Christmas Cards", well she is a crafter, I guess that was to be expected.

Mike, the prints are about 5x4 as it was a 8x10 sheet just roughly quartered. All placed on the paper before exposure and cut after washing and drying

I have attached a scan of them put back together (sort of).

Mike and Terry, having had a another closer look at the test strip, I think you are both right and an exposure of around the 25 in mark will be well worth a try.

Ian
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  #72  
Old 9th January 2021, 04:51 PM
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Regarding the eveness of light exposure, especially for 8x10 contact prints, would more lamps be necessary, a higher/lower lamp position and/or reflectors be wise?
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  #73  
Old 9th January 2021, 06:32 PM
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The results look really good. I actually found the site selling the lamp before, but was not sure about it. One question: UV light damages eyesight. Most lamps are in boxes or it is recommended to be outside the room and work with a timer. Does the lamp come with a timer or did you use one?
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  #74  
Old 9th January 2021, 07:34 PM
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Marty - the lamp is supposed to cover up to A4 "as is" so I suspect that the slight lack of uniformity is likely to be down to me rather than the lamp. The piece of paper in the attached photo's is A4.

Frank - The lamp came with no warnings relating UV, in fact it came with nothing whatsoever, but the lamp has a quite large reflector which I suspect sends all the UV downwards, I certainly did not notice any light going upwards, but being 20mins I did leave the room and go and do something else until the timer went off.

It does not come with a timer, but I just used the one on my phone.

It does not come with any kind of switch, just plug in for on and unplug for off, which I thought was odd as an inline switch would have been a better idea.

I've attached a couple of images of the lamp in use, they're not great but they give you an idea.

Ian
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  #75  
Old 9th January 2021, 08:25 PM
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The lamp says UV-A which is less dangerous than UV-B. UV-C is extremely dangerous and is used for sterilising medical equipment - do not go anywhere near a bare UVC lamp when it is on - not even for a few seconds.

Saying that, you do not want to expose yourself to high levels of UVA either so best to keep it from bouncing around the room. If the light is completely enclosed within a box then obviously, that is fine. I would be tempted to add some extra black cardboard shielding around that lamp Ian.

For a small amount of leakage around the edges then, yes, it's a good idea to just leave the room until it is finished - a tiny exposure on your way to the door will do no harm.

Most UV from the sun is UVA (although UVB is mainly what gives you sunburn). All the natural UVC is blocked by our atmosphere.
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  #76  
Old 9th January 2021, 10:43 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Good info from all parties and nice to know that the UV lamp has the capabilities to cover at least 8x10 and probably A4

Thanks

Mike
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  #77  
Old 10th January 2021, 01:34 PM
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Default Obtaining a lower contrast cyanotype.

I am continually reading about the cyanotype process, that I have started using.

I have now found it straight forward to obtain two colour cyanotypes i.e. Prussian blue and (paper base) white, but having read about using a full tone negative, there is a lot of conflicting advice to obtain a satisfactory print.

One is usually told to use a high contrast negative, which would normally print at grade 3, to obtain a good print, but a lot of people say that a lot of the lighter tones are bleached out.

Well, I have just found a simple solution (although I haven't tried it yet). Basically, one uses the same two chemicals, but coat the paper with FAC and then let it dry and then expose it. After exposure, one then 'washes' the print in the second chemical of Potassium ferricyanide. The print should then be of lower contrast and is finished in the usual way, by washing it in water.

https://www.alternativephotography.c...notype-prints/

Terry S
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Old 10th January 2021, 02:47 PM
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Thanks a lot for the information on the lamp and UV in general. I do Anthotypes in summer with sunlight. Next I want to start with Argyrotype and then Cyanotype after I read that it can also easily be toned to other colours.
Frank
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  #79  
Old 12th January 2021, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartyNL View Post
Hi Ian, they look fantastic. Are these more like photograms?

I'm also curious about the longevity of cyanotypes, so could you let us know about the colour intensity over time, please?
Prussian Blue is a very stable pigment and, provided the print has been well washed, should last a considerable time. The blue actually intensifies on exposure to air (oxygen) up to a point.

Good to see so many 'lockdown cyanotypes' appearing!

Here are a couple of my recent ones. Both made using the Mike Ware single-solution ferric ammonium oxalate formulation.
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  #80  
Old 13th January 2021, 09:37 AM
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Hi Roy, thanks for the reply about the longevity of cyanotype prints, it's good to know that they can last quite a while.

I've had a go at scanning in a couple of negs, converting to an enlarged digital neg and then contact printing with Cyanotype.

One is the garden pond (25 min exposure) and the other is Peterborough Cathedral (15 min exposure)

Think they turned out pretty OK.

Have attached them to this post.

As usual any opinions and comments welcome.

Ian
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