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> Comparison of hand held meters |
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#1
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Comparison of hand held meters
I recently put batteries in three of my handheld light meters. They are Sekonic 558, Sekonic 508, and my Gossen Luna Pro digital. The Sekonic were among the top listers. My Gossen Luna Pro digital was a lower end in the Gossen line. Amazingly all three measured within tenths of a second of each other.
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#2
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I use an ancient Gossen Bisix 2 for nearly everything and it's as accurate as a top-end Sekonic I borrowed from a friend, as well as pretty much all my in-camera meters (nearly all Olympus OM). It doesn't actually matter how accurate a meter is, as long as it's consistent.
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#3
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I have several meters, but like my very old Gossen Sixtomat most. It is based on a continuous wedge and a measuring bridge. I get very accurate results from it.
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#4
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Hand Held Metering
I very rarely use one now but when I do it is with a quite old Minolta Autometer 3. I bought it with the optional Spot meter attachment which actually give a sort of spot meter reading, but is I think about 5 degree and not 1 degree as per true spot meters, but good enough.
It is consistently accurate in any mode (spot reflective or incident). It is there as a back up should I need it with B&W macro to judge and depth of shadows/highlights. I also have a Weston Euromaster which may or maybe accurate depending on what day of the week it is! It is still sensitive but I can use it one day with the needle zero'd and the next it is reading up to 1 stop out. It probably just needs a good clean! |
#5
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Top marks to Rob Archer.
Accuracy and consistency are two different things. What does a camera technician use for a standard reference light source to calibrate cameras and meters? Cheers.
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#6
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Quote:
On the other hand, the independent Nikon F2engineer Sover Wong uses a Nikon calibrated electronic device so he can adjust the finder meter/ shutter to a max of approx .125 of a stop (1/8th) |
#7
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Well, yes, as long as you always have it. Like thermometers, if you use one that's consistent but actually inaccurate and you break it, you have lost your calibration. It's good to compare to some others just in case.
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#8
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Quote:
However, it's worth having a few meters and know how they correspond to one another. My favourite is a Weston Euromaster, which is about 40 years old but I had it re-celled and cleaned about 10 years ago. When the light is more challenging, I will break out my spot meter to work out where the zones will fall. I always try and guess what the exposure will be as a bit of a game but I always rely on a meter. Martin |
#9
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The settings recommended in the leaflet in the film carton or printed inside it give an excellent guide. Take a meter reading when the lighting condition matches the printed guide and check for agreement.
There was a time when meters were calibrated with an EV scale that corresponded with the scale marked on lenses with shutters linked to the aperture scale. They relied on ASA/ISO to be set on the meter. Come to think of it, that's the way my (relatively) modern Sekonic works. |
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