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  #21  
Old 3rd April 2022, 07:56 PM
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paddy paddy is offline
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Brown glass winchester bottles are the way to go, i make D76 which is supposed to be very close to ID11 anyway, i use stock solution for my films and discard it
Keep it in a cool dark place
Or you could use Rodinal and not worry, i have a bottle thats about 18 yeras old and i will still use it
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  #22  
Old 9th April 2022, 09:01 AM
Simon E Simon E is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paddy View Post
Brown glass winchester bottles are the way to go
I'd agree. I use the 330ml Purdey's bottles. Like others have said, I once tried concertina bottles but found them unsatisfactory.

If you want a set of amounts for varying dilution ratios I have a very simple web page here with volumes up to 1500ml and dilutions to 1+100.

I've not used ID-11 stock for a very long time. With increasing prices I now dilute it 1+3 and find it as works as well as 1+1.
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  #23  
Old 14th April 2022, 09:14 AM
PeteK PeteK is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paddy View Post
Brown glass winchester bottles are the way to go, i make D76 which is supposed to be very close to ID11 anyway, i use stock solution for my films and discard it
Keep it in a cool dark place
Or you could use Rodinal and not worry, i have a bottle thats about 18 yeras old and i will still use it
I bought a 1l brown glass bottle and some vacuum stoppers. I also bought some Bellini Hydrofen which is a Rodinal speziale copy, so I took your advice completely

Next question, I have some 375ml chem bottles. Is there any point to them? When I am developing I always put more than the recommended amount in the tank, I am paranoid about half of the film being in the developer

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  #24  
Old 14th April 2022, 02:34 PM
Svend Svend is offline
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Originally Posted by PeteK View Post
Next question, I have some 375ml chem bottles. Is there any point to them? When I am developing I always put more than the recommended amount in the tank, I am paranoid about half of the film being in the developer

Hi Pete,

If you have a Patterson or other tank that takes two rolls of 135, and you use, say, ID-11 at 1+1, then these bottles will be useful. I have started saving some 300ml sport drink bottles for this very purpose. One full bottle of 300ml gives me 1+1 dilution (600ml total) for two rolls of 135 film in a small Patterson tank with Perceptol or ID-11/D76. That way I use a full bottle with each batch and never have half-full bottles sitting around slowly going bad. Handy, as I sometimes go many weeks or months between developing sessions.

BTW, I wouldn't use much more than the recommended amounts for your tank. If the tank is over-full, you may not get the turbulence needed for good agitation when you invert. If you still don't trust the manufacturer's numbers, put empty reels (with central cylinder) in a tank and fill with the required amount of water, and I'm sure your doubts will be satisfied :-)
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Last edited by Svend; 14th April 2022 at 02:41 PM.
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  #25  
Old 14th April 2022, 04:36 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Svend View Post
Hi Pete,

BTW, I wouldn't use much more than the recommended amounts for your tank. If the tank is over-full, you may not get the turbulence needed for good agitation when you invert. If you still don't trust the manufacturer's numbers, put empty reels (with central cylinder) in a tank and fill with the required amount of water, and I'm sure your doubts will be satisfied :-)
My experience with tanks' capacities (Durst and Jobo) is that both quote the right amount of liquid so if, for instance, the Jobo tank for 135 film quotes 240ml then that is the amount that fills the tank and covers the reel

There might be 2 reasons why you want to err on the "overfull" side; 1. It is easier to work in 250s than 240s. 2 a few drops of developer might spill out in say 10 minutes inversion

However a margin of 10ml is more than sufficient and prevents Svend's what is rightly a problem with overfill in a tank

Mike
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  #26  
Old 14th April 2022, 05:42 PM
PeteK PeteK is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Svend View Post
Hi Pete,

If you have a Patterson or other tank that takes two rolls of 135, and you use, say, ID-11 at 1+1, then these bottles will be useful. I have started saving some 300ml sport drink bottles for this very purpose. One full bottle of 300ml gives me 1+1 dilution (600ml total) for two rolls of 135 film in a small Patterson tank with Perceptol or ID-11/D76. That way I use a full bottle with each batch and never have half-full bottles sitting around slowly going bad. Handy, as I sometimes go many weeks or months between developing sessions.

BTW, I wouldn't use much more than the recommended amounts for your tank. If the tank is over-full, you may not get the turbulence needed for good agitation when you invert. If you still don't trust the manufacturer's numbers, put empty reels (with central cylinder) in a tank and fill with the required amount of water, and I'm sure your doubts will be satisfied :-)
That's a really good idea to test it. I have a two reel tank and always put an empty reel on top of the loaded one to stop it sliding up the column. As for 120, I made a spacer that does the same job. With the ID-11 I re-use stock, adding 10% to each subsequent dev time (next is dev #7 so +60%) and so far each film has been lovely. The 375ml is the perfect quantity for 135, however, my pal who advised me to do it that way says you need to keep it in the full litre for replenishment purposes so I may just decant and warm the required amount. So, next film will be done on what it says on the tank, and I will report back 😁 but I will keep my bottles lol

Re 1+1, is this right
1litre of ID-11 = 5 (5.33333.) 35mm or 4 x 120?

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  #27  
Old 14th April 2022, 06:14 PM
PeteK PeteK is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray View Post
My experience with tanks' capacities (Durst and Jobo) is that both quote the right amount of liquid so if, for instance, the Jobo tank for 135 film quotes 240ml then that is the amount that fills the tank and covers the reel



There might be 2 reasons why you want to err on the "overfull" side; 1. It is easier to work in 250s than 240s. 2 a few drops of developer might spill out in say 10 minutes inversion



However a margin of 10ml is more than sufficient and prevents Svend's what is rightly a problem with overfill in a tank



Mike
I just overfilled because I didn't know any better 🤣😅🤣😅🤣 I do now though

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  #28  
Old 14th April 2022, 08:02 PM
snusmumriken snusmumriken is offline
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You might also be interested in this thread:
http://www.film-and-darkroom-user.or...ad.php?t=14122
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  #29  
Old 17th April 2022, 09:58 PM
JOReynolds JOReynolds is offline
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Default boiling the water

I have just returned to my darkroom after a 2 1/2 year (covid) absence. I use Rodinal but the chap I share the darkroom with prefers D76 as a powder because it's easier to post. At my suggestion he boils the water and cools it as quickly as possible. Stored in darkness in a full PET bottle, it's still clear almost three years later and appears to give typical negatives.
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  #30  
Old 18th April 2022, 07:31 AM
John King John King is offline
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Default !D11 Shelf life after mixing

The brown bottle is the perfect answer, but when I store colour paper chemicals which are more susceptible to decay I go one step further. Try not to use old screw top wine bottle because when the seal is broken they are no longer 100% air tight

I heat the developer to around 40-45C which drives out a percentage of the dissolved oxygen so stretching the length of time it remains active. and pour that into the bottles then when still warm. This will not affect the activity of B&W chemicals

(Don't tell the boss but I fill the bottles still cold and pop them in the microwave for about 15seconds or however long it take to raise the temp - perfect)

I now screw on the tops. As the liquid cools, the liquid looses volume and forms a partial vacuum. Very much like a jar of jam which is filled when the jam is hot. When did you find your last jar of jam had gone off if the seal was intact?

There are two types of tops. One is a children proof type where you have to depress the top then turn so the top can be unscrewed. The other is a plain top with a conical neoprene insert. These are the ones to go for because these remain air tight for many months. They can be used time and time again

You will find when opening these tops there will be a short, sharp, intake of air which will confirm the vacuum was present. This should preserve mixed !D11/D76 and almost certainly other developers such as Perceptol for at least a year and possibly two or more.

Last edited by John King; 18th April 2022 at 07:39 AM.
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