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#11
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I recently did the following test:
Canon A1 and an AE1, both using a 50mm f1.8 and 28mm f2.8 on full auto (manual focus of course) and my EOS 300, EOS 50E cameras with their kit zoom lenses (full auto including AF) using one FP4+ film loaded and re-loaded into each camera in turn and shooting as near as possible identical images in my garden. I'm pleased to say that the negatives were consistent and accurate for exposure and focus across all cameras. I have had both the A1 and AE1 from new and apart from renewing the deteriorating seals a few years ago they have performed faultlessly. The two EOS cameras were acquired recently to assist my ageing eyesight with focusing. I also ran a series of tests using my Canon EF17-41mm and 24-105mm L series Canon lenses on the EOS 300 and 50E and they performed beautifully. Having started with manual cameras the 1950's I was always a little sceptical about about auto modes, especially auto focus, but with eyes that have more floaters than the Royal Navy, even after having cataracts removed, I welcome all the help I can get to keep me shooting. I also have and love a Pentax 645N with AF lenses and for the time being I also shoot 5x4. So in answer to Alex's question, personally I am now happy to shoot in full auto mode wherever possible. Last edited by Keith Haithwa; 23rd November 2020 at 09:52 AM. Reason: Text corrections. |
#12
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Use of the focal plane and what is in and out of focus can be used as a creative means to control how the viewer looks at and interprets a photograph. I imagine that might be more difficult although not impossible with the autofocus in film cameras.
Mike |
#13
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I acquired my first auto-exposure camera in (about) 1982, a Minolta XD7. What I quickly realised that the auto-exposure was so good I could confidently shoot reversal films like Kodachrome 25 on auto and the camera would be right almost all the time. Negative film, with it's greater latitude, was no worry at all.
I have since moved to using mostly Medium and Large format which meant learning to use a hand-held meter. LF in particular gave me new and exciting scope to get exposure wrong as I dug deeper into Zone, spot-metering and N+ and N- development. It's actually a nice change to occasionally go out with the Minolta and just shoot pictures without thinking about exposure. I now also have a couple of auto-focus Dynax cameras. I don't find auto-focus nearly as useful as auto-exposure. It might be very different if I did any sport or 'action' photography, but for pictorial work the auto-focus sometimes wants to latch onto the 'wrong' part of the scene. I find myself using focus lock and recomposing quite a lot. I also have a Zorki range-finder which I find problematic. With glasses on I can't see the whole viewfinder. Glasses off, I can see the whole 'finder and use the diopter adjustment to make it crystal clear. Unfortunately, with my glasses off I then can't see anything to photograph. It means I don't use her nearly as much as I thought I would. Maybe it needs auto-focus . . . |
#14
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When I did use autofocus last year, I programmed the back button on the Nikon F100 to start the camera focusing. If I remember correctly, you then release your thumb when you have achieved focus, and adjust the composition. This means that you can lock in the exposure separately, perhaps from a different part of the scene, by half pressing the shutter button. It sounds complicated, but is easy in practice, as long as you remember that the camera won’t focus until you use the back button. Alternatively, you can rely on the matrix metering, where you are best to simply point the camera at the subject, and let it do the calculation.
The issue I have found with some auto cameras is the lack of an adjustment for film speed. The DX system is, I think, a bit limiting. In fairness, cameras like the Nikon F75, which lack a direct adjustment, have quite wide exposure compensation available. This works, but I prefer the more direct adjustment of a film speed value. Alex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#15
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With the Minolta Dynax cameras I use, you can either hold the shutter button part way down to hold focus and then re compose, or on the si range, (600,700 and 8-0) you pres the AF button to hold focus, then if needed re compose, but I find that with the wide area focus frame I vere rarely need to hold focus, and the AF button is very easily held with the thumb, it seems just to fall into place, and AF is a boon, my eyesight is not what it was 20 years ago, whilst I can manual focus, IO cant do it with my glasses on, so I am constantly taking of and putting on my specs, and the auto exposure is always spot on, and if in doubt you have auto bracketing
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#16
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I shoot almost everything in manual focus and without the aid of auto exposure, or even any in-camera meter. That works for me, 99% of the time. However, I did get caught out last year when documenting work on a sheep farm (sheep move quickly when they want to and I missed the focus on a few shots that 'had potential'). So I returned with an auto-focus auto-everything Nikon N80, thinking all my problems would be solved. However, being used to all manual cameras that I can just pick up and use I gave up working my way through the N80 manual after a few pages and didn't pay attention to how it was focussing - it has about 5, or maybe 7 focus spots visible in the vf and when I was fiddling with one of the many buttons on it (?) I must have inadvertently set it to use the right-most spot, so virtually nothing was in focus - I think the whole film was wasted. I threw the N80 in the back of the cupboard and it has stayed there ever since.
So, it's back to all manual cameras and the hair shirt for me, for the foreseeable! Michael |
#17
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As for exposure typically aperture priority on cameras that offer it. Rarely full auto..........in fact almost never.
I have a fondness for old MF Nikon glass and the focus confirmation dot and rangefinder options help my old eyes a lot. With the F5 and motorsports I use the AF with dynamic action. It captures the shots I would miss otherwise. I also have a Nikon F and FM2n as well as a couple Canon AE-1 which I enjoy shooting as well. I guess it's like others said "it depends." The effectiveness of the auto exposure is demonstrated by my avatar. Taken on July 4 1982 from a hotel rooftop using an AE-1 on AP 50mm f1.8..............on Kodachrome 25. Last edited by MKCarberry; 23rd November 2020 at 03:18 PM. |
#18
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Quote:
I love shooting car races, especially vintage ones. Great fun! There are as many wonderful scenes in the paddocks as on the track. Vintage GP at Watkins Glen is on my bucket list for next year. For fast action on the track, I have found that when using manual focus lenses it really helps to anticipate the spot where I want to capture a shot and then pre-focus on that spot and wait for my car to come around again. It's pretty foolproof really. Hard to miss a shot if I have everything else right - shutter speed, etc.. I give myself a bit of wiggle room by using a faster film for a bit of depth of field. A monopod helps immensely too by keeping the camera level and steady, while still allowing me to swivel. As does a power winder -- love that thing! Enjoy!
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Regards, Svend Last edited by Svend; 23rd November 2020 at 04:52 PM. |
#19
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Do you have an F5? The speed at which it will consume film is financially prohibitive.
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#20
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No, thank goodness I only have a winder, not a motor drive. I have a Pentax MX, and the winder does only 2 frames per second. I was tempted to buy a motor drive for it (5 fps) but wisely decided I would rather spend the film consumption money on a nice dinner out with my wife.
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Regards, Svend |
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