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  #31  
Old 21st October 2020, 04:15 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Alex I imagine that what may be possible is an enlargement of a 35mm or 120 neg onto the likes of X ray or litho film creating a positive then a contact print of that 8x10 film positive onto another sheet of Xray to create a large neg for use with cyanotype paper

Does this sound right?

The cyanotype website which was given as a link gives fairly detailed instructions for the production of such a negative but yes it involves a clear transparency negative made from a scan

Mike
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  #32  
Old 21st October 2020, 04:21 PM
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7x5, Alex. I've done lots of them. Nice size for both blueprints and contacts.
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  #33  
Old 21st October 2020, 08:12 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
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I might try to find a 7x5 back for my Horseman camera. I know they made a 10x8, and probably also a 7x5, but they don’t appear for sale very often.
I have made 4x5 inter-positives from enlarged 35mm negatives, from which a 4x5 negative can, in turn, be made. It’s quite time-consuming. It might be worth it, however, to go to 5x7, or 8x10, the cost being the film only. Thinking about it, I could actually enlarge 4x5 negatives, which would retain the quality. The original images would have to be good to justify the cost of two large sheets per image. I’m off to investigate suitable film, as I haven’t found the alternative route very satisfactory.
Alex


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  #34  
Old 28th October 2020, 01:56 PM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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I have found some more info that might be useful.

First a post on the Pinterest site. Here someone has used an enlarger and a half frame negative, but no details about the f-stop used and height of the head. But they seemed to have used a UV bulb of some sort in the enlarger to get their cyanotype print. The only slight downside, is that the exposure took three hours(!) but at least it shows that it is possible.

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/522910206728937941/

Secondly, here is another Pinterest page, with some ideas on. I love the idea and look of the botanical t-shirt, but I think that it might be a project for the summer, as I think a lot more sunshine will be needed for the larger area of material:

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/194358540158648024/

Terry S
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  #35  
Old 10th November 2020, 06:25 PM
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Roy_H Roy_H is offline
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It's been a while since I popped in here. My main reason was to see what folk had to say about cyanotypes, as I've been doing quite a few recently.

I am definitely no expert, but here's a few things I've learned/noted:
  • The unmixed chemicals last well; once mixed, not very well.
  • The dried coated paper is good for a few days if stored in the dark.
  • An acidic wash helps - I'm in a very hard water area. I've tried white vinegar, citric and oxalic acids. All work, but the dilution needs some experimentation.
  • Hydrogen peroxide (very dilute) has a stunning blue intensification effect. The blue deepens even more over the course of a few days when dry.
  • I've printed digital files onto Pictorico transparency film using my inkjet and they print very well. Reversal both tonally and mirror-image is required of course.
  • Have printed from 8x10 traditional negatives very successfully using a UV lamp from a garden centre, used for floodlighting (50W LED).
  • I've been using the traditional chemicals, but have now found a source of Ammonium Ferric Oxalate so shall be trying the Mike Ware method.


Examples:
The first is from a digital file printed on to transparency film.
The second is from an 8x10 film negative.
The third is a traditional photogram, leaves placed on the paper in a contact frame.

I love the unpredictability of the tone and colour of the final image. These were all made with different mixes (ostensibly the same though) and exposed either in weak sunlight or with the UV garden light. Developed in plain water (1) or acidified water (2 & 3). All treated with weak peroxide after first wash.

Still some way to go to explore more options, something to do during lockdown anyway!
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  #36  
Old 10th November 2020, 07:25 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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They look pretty good Roy. Thanks for these and the post

Mike
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  #37  
Old 10th November 2020, 08:46 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
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Thanks for showing these, Roy. They are really good. I have been doing some experiments myself using paper negatives. So far, I have made some reasonable prints, but they take hours with the Phillips facial tan lamp. I’ve been using MG IV RC paper. I’ve bought some single weight paper to see if it’s a bit more transparent. I’m hoping to get the exposure down to 30mins, but the new paper is FB, so the process time to produce a paper negative will be longer. I will try acidifying the developing water next time to see if it improves results.
Alex.


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  #38  
Old 11th November 2020, 08:56 AM
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Hi Roy,

Thanks for posting, images look great, just hope when I get to use my kit that mine come out as good as yours.

Your pointers will be a great help to me, thanks.

Think I'll look into the 50 watt flood light, sounds interesting.

Ian
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  #39  
Old 11th November 2020, 12:29 PM
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Yes, very nice and inspiring results, Roy.
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  #40  
Old 11th November 2020, 04:51 PM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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Well, I must say that this thread has caught members attention, at 1,321views and counting.

I am just typing up my longer post, with pictures, to show what I have found out recently, whilst experimenting with it all.

I have some small, but interesting points, I hope, that will be useful to others who are or who are thinking of dipping their toes, to try out the cyanotype process.

I should be reporting back tomorrow.

Terry S
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