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> Ilford Ortho Plus - Developing under Red Light |
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#11
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Mike the issue with 35mm or 120 films is they are usually processed in reels, that makes development by inspection difficult.
Okay you can pull a few frames from the spiral to check but run the huge risk of damaging/scratching the film. The next problem is the usual manufacturers of amateur safelights don't make a 906 or equivalent safelight filter/dome. Best bet is a Kodak Beehive safelight and a Wratten 2 filter, or any safelight that will take a 10x8 glass filter, Ilfor sell a 906 filter for £66.96. I was lucky and founds a NIB Ilford 906 filter a couple of years ago for about £5 and had a 10x8 Safelight. I also have a couple of Ensign glass safelights these take a standard ceiling light fitting these too are NIB one's a Dark Ruby Red, the other a Bright red. Ian Last edited by Lostlabours; 1st December 2019 at 05:06 PM. |
#12
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I intend on getting another one, but the one I have is excellent. It's brighter than any of my Paterson's and has caused no fogging over good lengths of time. The best bit is that it was under £3 including p/p. Terry S |
#13
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By red LED do you mean this type of thing? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bright-Colo...%2C169&sr=8-45 |
#14
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But mine was from a UK eBay seller and is a pygmy screw in led bulb. Terry S Ps bit like this one... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F184023703755 Last edited by Terry S; 1st December 2019 at 09:11 PM. |
#15
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Thanks Terry!
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#16
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It's youtube - don't expect too much by way of precision or detail.
However, unlike the BBC, there is the option of asking any questions you have in the comments section. Depending on the channel, you may or may not get a reply. I did once make a suggestion on his channel about a possible better way to burn the sky with a complex horizon and got a thank-you and a follow-up question in response. I always treat youtube videos as a suggestion for further investigation rather than a reliable answer to anything as they are mostly made by enthusiasts, not established experts. But often valuable and interesting for all that. Last edited by Bob; 2nd December 2019 at 12:16 PM. |
#17
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I've just developed a couple of rolls of Ilford Ortho + (120) by the light of a cheap, bog-standard Paterson safelight. They've come out fine. 10.5 minutes in ID11 (1+1) at 20 DegC. One film is of general local scenes to see hoe the film performs and the other was taken in woodland in fairly overcast conditions. The woodland shots in particular look very promising. I guess the light in a shaded woodland is 'bluer' than elsewhere? Ortho film can give very nice results (very fine grain, sharp) if you don't mind bland skies. I'll post some scans of prints when I get a chance to print them. My only beef with the Ilford Ortho is the price. I can't see myself using a lot of it at over £8 a roll!
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#18
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The problem with red light safelight fogging is it's not always what you's expect, with a film that's essentially insensitive to red light you can run into the Herschel effect which causes latent image bleaching. This alters contrast etc.
A form of the Herschel effect is used with Direct Positive paper, also Ciba/Ilfochrome which used the same emulsion as Harman Direct Positive paper. For high quality results I'd rather use the correct safelight/filter, then results are consistent and repeatable. Ian |
#19
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Bob I found the gent in question to be easy to listen to. He explained things in "man in the street" language. In fact as a presenter I felt he has a lot going for him and I'd watch him again which makes it a bigger pity that he didn't think to cover the points I raised in my FADU thread
He appears to be a friend of our own pentaxpete as he mentions Peter at the end of the video. As you say there is an opportunity for a Q&A on his site Mike |
#20
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I know you can process under a deep red safelight but.......... why would you want to ?
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