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#1
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Washing Pyro films
I have been using Pyro PMK on and off for a number of years. This evening I developed a role of HP5 and followed Ed Buffalo method on unblinking eye (it isn't much different from my own). Negs are hanging up to dry and look to have come out looking nice. Something I have always wondered about was in the washing. I have used the Ilford method of washing for a long time on all films but with PMK there is always the mention of washing in constant flow of water giving the increase in the stain. Has anyone any experiance of this, does it actually make a big difference?
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#2
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I have no experience of staining developers but I wonder what it is that a constant flow of waters does than the Ilford method doesn't do in terms of increasing the stain.
What is the source of the statement, Steve? Mike |
#3
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I have seen it a few time mentioned, as usual I can't think of any immediately but this is one I did find:-
http://www.cabbagetownphoto.com/pyro.html. Point 6. I no longer have the book but if I am sure Gordon Hutchings mentioned it in his book of Pyro. |
#4
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There are those here Steve who can comment on PMK Pyro and the processing suggested in your link much better than I but there was a number of steps in the processing that hinted to me that cabbagetown may not be basing everything on science. It wasn't for instance clear why the omission of pre-wash meant that films stuck to each other. In the processing suggested are the films touching and if so how?
He mentions 30-45 mins washing which is long compared to anything else I have ever seen but he doesn't mention a continuous flow of water. It was the idea that flowing water has a special effect as opposed to the fill invert and dump Ilford washing process that intrigued me but maybe it is length of washing that is key However the question remains why does this lengthy time increase staining and he does not explain this Mike |
#5
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I'm not sure how it's possible that stain intensifies during washing. staining is a by product of the developing process where the oxidised developing agent forms a dye.
There was a lot of rubbish written when PMK was formulated, one was that to improve the staining you should re-immerse the film in the spent developer after fixing. Yes that does increase staining but not particularly evenly and it's just increasing base staining and not in prportion to the negative's tonal range. Gordon Hutchings later dropped that recommendation and no longer recommends it. While I don't use PMK I do use Pyrocat HD another staining developer and have done for around 15 or 16 years. I also use Ilfor IT-8 toner on occasions, the Bleach is Potassium Dicromate and HCl based so similar to a Chrome intensifier and the re-developer a simple Pyrocatechin developer. I now use Pyrocat HD as the redeveloper as it works as well and keeps well, one problem with the simple toner developer is it oxidises very quickly and stains the paper base. The Pyrocatechin stain is very stable and acid fixers washing etc doesn't affect it. It's possible the Pyrogallol stain is less stable washing certainly cannot increase it but it may remove some of the base stain and in doing so increase contrast slightly. Ian |
#6
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Thanks for the input guys. It is just something I have been curious about for a little while. Not being a chemist I wondered if there was 'something in the water'.
I still have some PMK to get through but am keen to try the Pyrocat HD. Steve |
#7
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I haven't washed film in running water for years. PMK is now my only developer, and I wash by the Ilford method. The only variation in staining I notice depends on the film.
HP5 stains strongly, as does Fomapan 100. PanF much less so, and SFX not at all. Like Ian, I can't qute see how washing in water causes more stain to develop after the staining agent is gone. Always willing to hear scientific reason though if anyone has one. |
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