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  #11  
Old 19th October 2009, 07:40 PM
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I have an apron type dryer big enough to take 16x12 paper. I never got on well with it and haven't used it for years. If anyone wants it, make me an offer! These days I air dry my FB prints on mesh screens which takes a lot longer but I get flat prints.
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  #12  
Old 19th October 2009, 07:45 PM
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Many thanks to all that replied it has aloud me to come to the conclusion that I should save my money and go for the blotting paper.
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John
Lincoln
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  #13  
Old 20th October 2009, 09:07 AM
Tony Marlow Tony Marlow is online now
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Quote:
These days I air dry my FB prints on mesh screens which takes a lot longer but I get flat prints.
Just a point Richard, do you place your prints face up or face down on the mesh screens? I placed mine face down after wiping off the surplus water but I got the mesh pattern showing on the emulsion after they had dried. At the moment I am placing them face up but they do-not dry quite so flat. I am trying to pluck up courage to try face down again.

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  #14  
Old 20th October 2009, 10:01 AM
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I give them a squeegee to get the worst off (an old windscreen-wiper blade works well) and then lay them face down. Never had a problem. The mesh is just plastic netting from B+Q, designed to keep birds off garden ponds and the like. Paper is MG IV and Agfa MCC.
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  #15  
Old 20th October 2009, 10:15 AM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Marlow View Post
Just a point Richard, do you place your prints face up or face down on the mesh screens? I placed mine face down after wiping off the surplus water but I got the mesh pattern showing on the emulsion after they had dried. At the moment I am placing them face up but they do-not dry quite so flat. I am trying to pluck up courage to try face down again.

Tony
When the prints are emulsion side down gravity assists the flattening process. If they are emulsion side up, it cannot.
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  #16  
Old 21st October 2009, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave View Post
When the prints are emulsion side down gravity assists the flattening process. If they are emulsion side up, it cannot.
I wonder if it's gravity that's helping or something to do with the paper construction and how it behaves as it is dehydrating.

Some clever person with time on his hands has no doubt conducted experiments!
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  #17  
Old 2nd November 2009, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Bartram View Post
Usually air dry back to back on clothes line above my wet area. Kentmere 12X9.5 dries pretty flat like this

Andrew
Here’s the tricky bit. When drying back to back, how do you avoid peg marks on the emulsion side? I’ve experimented with a variety of sorts of peg, but all seem to leave a mark of some description. This doesn’t present a problem if the print is to be mounted, but for things like exchanges where the print is going out unmounted it does affect the look of the print.

Any cunning tricks or do I just have to get the guillotine out?
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  #18  
Old 2nd November 2009, 01:49 PM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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Originally Posted by PaulG View Post
Here’s the tricky bit. When drying back to back, how do you avoid peg marks on the emulsion side? I’ve experimented with a variety of sorts of peg, but all seem to leave a mark of some description. This doesn’t present a problem if the print is to be mounted, but for things like exchanges where the print is going out unmounted it does affect the look of the print.

Any cunning tricks or do I just have to get the guillotine out?
Peg marks are a sign of a proper print.
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  #19  
Old 2nd November 2009, 04:03 PM
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Peg marks are a sign of a proper print.
Ah-hah! So I should treat them like a badge of honour?
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