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  #11  
Old 8th January 2020, 07:12 PM
soulstar soulstar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Clark View Post
Welcome to the forum Soulstar, and congratulations on choosing the excellent combination of HP5 developed in ID11 at 1+2. I have been using this combination for at least 10 years and have found that it gives me four real benefits.
1. By choosing the right development time - I use 12 minutes - I get a lot of control over contrast so my negatives are very easy to print.
2. By exposing the film at 200 iso there is little or no compression of the mid-tones and this results in better-looking prints.
3. The dilution of 1+2 gives noticeably sharper results than 1+1. There is a very slight increase in grain, but this shows itself as a crisping up of the grain, rather than an increase, and makes the prints look sharper. 11 inch wide prints on 12 x 9.5 inch paper look very crisp.
4. A fast enough shutter speed for hand-held 35mm photography.


You will be aware that, for film exposed on a sunny day it is the usual practice to give more exposure and less development. The reduced development is to stop the film highlights getting too dense, and the extra exposure is to ensure the mid-tones don't come out too dark in the print (which they otherwise would with reduced development) People usually come up with a reduced development time based on film exposed in full sun - and it is often referred to as Normal-1, or N-1. My development time of 12 minutes is based not on full sun, but on photographs taken in hazy sun. This is my favourite light. With film rated at 200 and developed for 14 minutes in 1+2 ID11, I get negatives that usually print on Grade 2.5. If the sun comes out full whack I carry on photographing knowing these frames will probably print well on Grade 1.5. If the sun goes in I get negatives that print on about Grade 3.5. On a really dull day I usually stay at home and do a bit of guitar making!
So what I have got is a no-fuss system that is easy to operate and gives reliable high-quality results.
Hope this helps.

Alan
thanks for this alan. very helpful
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  #12  
Old 17th February 2020, 09:17 PM
soulstar soulstar is offline
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just a little follow up. I developed he hp5 roll 1+2 in id11 for 15:30mins. Was very content and happy with the frame below. ill be heading to print over the weekend as prints show the true quality. i need get better at loading the roll as i get dinks in every roll lol


Last edited by soulstar; 17th February 2020 at 09:29 PM.
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  #13  
Old 17th February 2020, 09:25 PM
soulstar soulstar is offline
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  #14  
Old 17th February 2020, 09:29 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is online now
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soulstar, glad that 1+2 and 15' 30" worked. There is no frame below that I can see.

Thanks

Mike
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  #15  
Old 17th February 2020, 09:46 PM
soulstar soulstar is offline
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that was weird
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  #16  
Old 17th February 2020, 10:22 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is online now
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soulstar, if this is a reverse scan of the negative which is fine for the purposes of illustrating a result on a thread and has had nothing done to it then the negative should make a fine print

What was the camera by way of format - 35mm or MF?

Thanks

Mike
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  #17  
Old 17th February 2020, 10:44 PM
soulstar soulstar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray View Post
soulstar, if this is a reverse scan of the negative which is fine for the purposes of illustrating a result on a thread and has had nothing done to it then the negative should make a fine print

What was the camera by way of format - 35mm or MF?

Thanks

Mike
Reverse scan? Do you mean the process of what the scanner does making the negative image into the image which reads normal? I just re-enacted adding a higher filter grade prob a 3 or 3.5.

I used a rz67 proii with the 110mm wide open. It’s medium format 6x7. I found it hard to focus on his eye closest to me. His glasses are in focus. More practice needed lol. I need to pick up the magnifier attachment for the prism. It’s hard to find in Europe
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  #18  
Old 18th February 2020, 12:58 PM
Terry S Terry S is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soulstar View Post
Reverse scan? Do you mean the process of what the scanner does making the negative image into the image which reads normal?
I believe that was what was meant. It's just that this site likes to keep everything as close to analogue as possible i.e. prints instead of negative scans, unless illustrating a point, as you have.

As for the picture, I like using lenses wide open, but I feel with this picture, I would have liked maybe a stop or two more exposure, to give just a little more of it in focus.

But a good picture anyway.

Terry S
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  #19  
Old 18th February 2020, 02:18 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is online now
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Yes soulstar, what I meant was what you interpreted it to be and Terry summed up well. I know nothing literally of scanning but my understanding is that a normal scan shows the negative as a negative or a print as a print which is positive but a reverse scan turns the negative into a positive as if it were a transparency or print.

In some ways given you are trying to illustrate how your dilution and time handled the negative an actual digital picture of the negative may be the best option. This should be the truest representation of the negative since as I understand matters, a scanner can do things to the negative in terms of alteration without the user realising it which is an attempt to effect an improvement but only serves to mislead viewers to the extent that the negative we then see may not necessarily be the most authentic representation of that negative which detracts from this kind of analysis

I hope that makes sense


Mike
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  #20  
Old 18th February 2020, 08:02 PM
soulstar soulstar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry S View Post
I believe that was what was meant. It's just that this site likes to keep everything as close to analogue as possible i.e. prints instead of negative scans, unless illustrating a point, as you have.

As for the picture, I like using lenses wide open, but I feel with this picture, I would have liked maybe a stop or two more exposure, to give just a little more of it in focus.

But a good picture anyway.

Terry S
i never like to shoot wide open on the 110mm as like the picture its extremely shallow. i didnt have enough light sadly. i agree if i had enough light to shoot f5.6 it would have been ideal in terms or depth of field. i also dont like to shoot under 1/125th with the rz due to the massive mirror so i was l must admit i was surprised that i didnt get any camera shake at 2.8 1/60th.

i also fully understand regarding trying to keep things analog. i will do a print this weekend and then see the true potential of the frame
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