Support our Sponsors, they keep FADU free: AG Photographic The Imaging Warehouse Process Supplies RH Designs Second-hand Darkroom Supplies |
> My first attempt at developing. |
*** Click here for the FADU 2015/2014 Yearbooks *** |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
My first attempt at developing.
Hi Les,
A question from a beginner if you don't mind.... Operating on a £20 a week budget, I am currently a decent thermometer, and a couple of big storage containers away, from ordering my first batch of developing chemicals. I have decided, rightly or wrongly, to learn my self-developing skills with Ilford products. I shall be using (120) Delta 100/400, HP5+, and maybe Pan-F 50, entirely due to their relative access and availability to me. My first question would be for advice on which chemicals I should order, to match up with these films (I'm assuming that Ilford chemicals, which I can easily access, will be the least confusing and most compatible option, for now). I will be developing the film one at a time in a new £20 Paterson Universal 4 system tank and reel set-up. I just want a decent developer/stop/fix/wash combination (does water substitute one or more of these ?) that will match up nicely, and have straight-forward dilution and timing characteristics. Just enough to give me decent results if I follow instructions properly. Whether I should 'practise' with the slower or the faster films first, would also be helpful advice. I would like to be developing one or two rolls a week. Which of the Ilford product combinations would you suggest I try. Thanks for your time JP |
*** Please note: this is the ASK LES forum *** *** Only Les McLean and the original poster may post in this thread *** *** Anyone else posting into this thread will have their post deleted *** |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Hi JP, My first suggestion would be to start with one film and one developer to gain experience and confidence. My film suggestion is either Ilford Delta 100 or Ilford FP4+ developed in ID11 1 part water to 1 part developer at the time and temperature suggested by Ilford in the instructions. For stop use plain ordinary water at 20c to eliminate the possibility of getting pin holes in the film due to possibly using overstrength acid stop bath, it's also less expensive than stop bath which is mainly water anyway. Ilford standard fix, again at the time dilution and temperature suggested by Ilford. For washing I have used the Ilford method for some 20 odd years and my films are still pristene.
The method is as follows: Prepare enough water at 20c to fill your developing tank six times. After fixing fill the tank and agitate 5 inversions, empty the tank and fill with water, agitate 10 times. Repeat this procedure, agitating 20 times, 15 times, 10 times and finally 5 times. Rinse the film in water with a little Photoflow and a bottle capfull of Isopropyl Alcohol. Do not squeegee and hang up to dry. When you have gained a little experience with one film and developer and are starting to understand how it all works you should then consider trying other film developer combinations. Don't rush these things, don't be frightened or annoyed with yourself when you make mistakes, you will make mistakes we all have, but you will learn from them. Most importantly have fun. In many ways I wish I were just beginning too so that I could enjoy the excitement of learning something new with you. Best wishes |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks Les,
I had wondered if the ph level of the stop-water was significant. I think my local tap water is as good as (neutral ph) any supply that I know of. I've had several recommendations from members to go with HP5+ initially, as it has a supposedly forgiving latitude for a bumbling newbie like me. I think I'll go with the Ilford dev and fix. Although somewhat more expensive, I can easily work out the timing by following the easily understood charts that I have already downloaded from the Ilford website. The extra cost, compared to, say D76, is offset somewhat by the omission of stress, in trying to source and cross-reference different manufacturers parameters. It's all frustrating theory at the moment, but I'm reasonably confident of success, once I experience the sheer physicality of actually doing it. Hopefully within a few weeks, I will have accrued the materials, developed, and scanned at least one neg that I can upload for criticism. Thanks for the tips JP |
Support our Sponsors, they keep FADU free: AG Photographic The Imaging Warehouse Process Supplies RH Designs Second-hand Darkroom Supplies |
*** Please note: this is the ASK LES forum *** *** Only Les McLean and the original poster may post in this thread *** *** Anyone else posting into this thread will have their post deleted *** |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Good developing or not? | TareqPhoto | Darkroom | 8 | 23rd June 2010 08:50 PM |
B&W Developing Book. | Keith Tapscott. | Books | 0 | 1st May 2010 02:06 PM |
8x10 - more developing woes | PaulG | Monochrome Film | 21 | 20th March 2010 10:35 AM |
Developing Fomapan | photomi7ch | Monochrome Film | 6 | 23rd March 2009 06:21 PM |
Developing in open dishes | PaulG | Monochrome Film | 9 | 9th December 2008 01:37 PM |