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#1
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leaking paterson 4 tanks
I have always had fluid leaks from the joint between the screw on lid and tank body, The grey plastic gasket feels too hard to compress and make a seal even when I screw the lid on tight. Have you got any suggestions on how to stop my Paterson 4 film developer tanks from leaking when inverted?
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"Tea is surely the king of all drinks. It helps against the cold, it helps against the heat,against discomfort and sickness, against weariness and weakness". Heinrich Harrer. Last edited by GoodOldNorm; 13th March 2016 at 09:37 PM. Reason: changed text |
#2
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The Super System 4 does away with the gaskets, but they're incompatible with the earlier tanks.
I always had dribbles with the System 4 tanks, but not with their replacements. Fortunately the reels still work, though the cores don't. Nick |
#3
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I don't think Paterson ever got to the bottom of how to seal their System 4 tanks - so went for a completely different sealing method on the Super System 4 Tanks - and it worked.
The amount the System 4 tanks leak is usually not great - but it is annoying. It pays we wear a set of standard yellow Marigold Gloves to keep the chemicals off your skin - more one FADU member has had to permanently retire from analogue photograph because they developed a skin reaction to the Metol developer. Martin |
#4
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I have a Jessop tank which is obviously a rebadged Paterson system 4, but there is no gasket at all under the lid. I bought it secondhand so can't say if it ever had one. Ironically it doesn't leak from there, but from the flexible plastic centre cap. I always have to use it in the sink and wear gloves.
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#5
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Quote:
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#6
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#7
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Does anyone use the 'twiddling stick' in these tanks rather than inverting? - Perhaps Paterson never expected us to be turning them upside down.
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#8
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leaking paterson 4 tanks
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I did use the stick, but problems with uneven development caused me to stop. I bought one of the current models of tank recently. I'm sure the instructions, which I had never seen before, suggest an initial twiddle with the stick, then lid on and inversions. The provision of a lid suggests inversion was considered an option by the manufacturer. I haven't tried the combination of both types of agitation but it may be worth a trial to see if it's any more effective. Alex. |
#9
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Paterson suggest that the initial agitation should be with the twiddle stick then inversion, IIRC the suggestion was 1 turn per second, I have used the twiddle stick for the whole time, without problems, I find the you need to turn one way for ten seconds then ten seconds the other, for the initial time then 5 seconds one way and 5 the other for the the remaining time, if you use 2 inversions every 30 seconds as for Rodinal then 5 one way five the other, works fine
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#10
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Applying PTFE tape to the tanks top sealing face would be very tricky - as you need to do it in perfect darkness. Depressurising the tank is often enough to stop the tank from leaking - after you pour the chemicals in to the tank and having agitated the chemicals for the first time - you then need to lift the soft lid off its sealing surface, then press the soft lid in to a slight concave shape and pop it back on to the tanks again. It works well enough for me - YMMV Regardless of leaks or not - its still worth donning a pair of yellow Marigold rubber gloves - keeping photographic chemicals off bare skin is always a good idea. Martin |
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