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> Wotan Duka 50 Colour Safelight.Instructions. |
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#11
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I don't think my Duka 50 takes about 60 mins to fully warm-up - so I switch it on as soon as I enter the darkroom - before I do any of the other setting up.
I then leave it on all day. If you do inadvertently switch it off, make sure the unit has fully cooled down before you restart it - warm restarts kill the bulb life. Martin |
#12
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Quote:
Mike |
#13
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The plot thickens!
I have just set things up to start printing and before I switched on the light I opened the casing up and the rear slider does not appear to be connected to anything!
When I reassembled the light and switched it on, I reset the lever to 9 and then moved the rear slider fully from one side to another and it made absolutely no difference. I then shut the baffle slider and then fully opened it and checked again and no difference at all, so what it's purpose is, who knows. Time for a cuppa now (and a sticky bun) then upstairs to cut some paper of the roll and get ready for an evenings printing after tea. |
#14
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Quote:
Mike |
#15
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I have a duca 5 which is the lesser not colour safe version. It is styled the same as my Duka 50 but much lighter in weight.
My duka 50's are either Osram or Kaiser and have only the slider on the rim which is marked 0-50. The diffusion front is similarly marked 0-50 just below the slider on the front. One of my Kaiser duka 50 has a red/orange coloured diffision instead of white.
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#16
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I hope this helps. It even clarifies the ‘mystery slider’ , the warmup time and the issue of switching on and off during a session. Alex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
#17
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Thanks Alex. So it sounds from the Duka instructions as if the rearmost slider is there as a stop to prevent you accidentally moving the front most slider from going beyond the position predetermined by the test it describes in the instructions. As the front most slider is (a) easily moved and (b) can be lowered in intensity when required for the use of an analyser such as the Colorstar 3000 or possible an RH Designs Analyser Pro this make sense.
However I have just tried my stop and no matter where I move it to the front slider goes past it without any increase in resistance as seems to be case with John's Does your stop work OK? How is this linked to the front slider? From the instructions I see the lever that links the revolving open to shut shield to the front slider but not what connects the stop at the back from the front slider to allow it to act as a stop As I said I have the DUKA 10 but essentially it looks identical to what is shown for the 50. If you stop works then it might be as simple as my stop being broken. It was secondhand from Nova Darkroom so may already have broken Finally for Bill Cowan: I wonder why your Duka 50 has only one slider and not rear slider to act as a stop? Thanks all Mike |
#18
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Now that I have seen the picture, I see the
stop. So on my duko's, one works, one does not and one slightly catches then passes by.
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www.eleventyoneportraits.com |
#19
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Thanks Bill If I have understood you correctly, it is tentatively suggesting that the front illumination slider works and the stop does not or only slightly catches the front slider but the stop function has largely stopped working
It tends to suggest that stop may have been the part that was easily damaged and in a lot of secondhand machines had stopped working It will be interesting to hear whether it functions on Alex' machine Mike |
#20
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Red filter
For the record, I have never used the red filter at all. They are obviously playing safe by having it with the lamp, but I have never ever found any problem by using the lamp, even at full power without the filter in position.
Some of my B&W enlarger exposures are up to 1 or even 1.5 minutes long especially with the larger pictures and I have never experienced fogging. |
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