Budget B/W chemicals

[tmgreenhalgh]

Hello everyone,
I'm a student and on a budget, please could anybody recommend me some B/w darkroom chemicals which work well.

[B&W Neil]

Hello and welcome to FADU,

If you don't mind a bit of grain with fast films Rodinal is about the most economical and one of the best film developers around. Alternatively a good all rounder (and the industry standard) that produces excellent results with most films is Kodak’s D76 (NB. not the equivalent ID11 which is more expensive to buy). Don't use a stop bath for films and save money - a plain water rinse/wash is OK. For fixer (films and papers) they are all good but shop around to get the best price - keep an eye on dilutions etc. For paper developer Neutol NE is a good buy and a nice developer. It can be used between 1+7 and 1+14 and keeps well and is economical.

Check out our sponsors’ websites for more information and prices. If you need any more help just ask here.
Neil.

[RH Designs]

Another vote for Rodinal, it's very economical (probably the cheapest of all per film) and keeps for years and years.

[Dave Hall]

I use it all the time, have done for decades. Comfortable with it, dependable, economical, but more importantly lasts for ever( well. it probably would if you never use it )

[Dave Hall]

Also like Neil,with film developing I simply use plenty of water for a "Stop"

[Richard Gould]

Rodinal is a great film developer and goes a long way, also check out the Champion range of chemicals at http://firstcall-photographic.co.uk you won't find cheaper Fixer,paper developer and film developer,(Promicrol) and it is of the highest quality, I have used the Champion range myself and the quality/price can't be beaten, for stop bath simply use plain water, it works and is the cheapest of all.
Richard

[dsallen]

If you really want to save money you can make Developer and Fixer yourself. There are loads of very simple formulae available and you can get the raw chemicals from Silverprint.

Information about making and using a simple two-bath negative developer is here:

http://www.ephotozine.com/article/us...evelopers-4637

Simple print developers are here:

http://jerryo.com/formula/pdev2.htm

Simple fixer is here:

http://tomwestbrook.com/Photography/notebook.html#fixer

or use this

Kodak F-24 Non-Hardening Fixing Bath

Water (at about 125F or 52C) 500.0 ml
Sodium thiosulfate, crystalline 240.0 grams
Sodium sulfite, dessicated 10.0 grams
Sodium bisulfite (or metabisulfite) 25.0 grams
Water to make 1.0 liter

[timor]

David is right, mixing own chemicals is most economical...but initial investment is rather large. Ready for use, fluid concentrates are very practical. Off course everyone is rushing to suggest Rodinal. A big tradition, almost everyone started wit it, me to. However I would suggest something else as a starter: Kodak Tmax developer. In terms of money it works like this (according to my, Canadian prices) ! film in Rodinal (1+49 aka 1:50) 32 cents, Tmax (1+9 one shot) 46 cents. That's pure prices, no taxes included. Unless someone goes with mass development... Tmax is a modern brew, very easy to work with, gives soft. low contrast and fine grain (unlike Rodinal), high acutance negatives. Very hard to overdevelop ( I didn't manage it yet). Much better stuff for a beginner.
As for paper developer I would suggest Kodak Polymax, A fluid version of Dektol. Good tray life.

[Richard Gould]

The cheapest developer you can get is probably Kodak D76, a powder developer that you have to mix, no problem, Check out the price at AG photographic, one of the forum sponsors, I can't think of a film that D76 or ID11 from ilford, which is the same developer, cannot develop, .
Richard

[Bill Clark]

I like D-76/ID-11 as well.

I have stock solution that I mixed two years ago and still works just fine. I'm thinking a good reason the solution lasts so long is because I use empty 2 liter soda bottles. The plastic used isn't bothered at all with film developing chemicals. They are easy to wash, no residue after washing, and the lid is constructed to seal very well and with materials to last a very long time when used over and over.

I store the stock solutions in a cabinet under a bathroom sink where pretty consistent temperatures are present and the bottles are in the dark (just like me! Ha!).

If you decide on D-76/ID-11 or other powder chemicals I recommend you mix the entire packet(s) up for the stock solution you buy from your supplier as trying to weigh out smaller amounts could give you inconsistent results. I just think that once the packet is opened it should be used as the manufacturer suggests.

Hope this helps you.