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> which sepia toner? |
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which sepia toner?
I have always had good results with Fotospeed ST20 sepia toner and particularly like the increase in contrast it gives over an untoned print from the same negative. But I have been wondering about using a direct toner - one that doesn't need a bleach first. I see that Moersch does several of these. Has anybody tried them? Or any other direct sepia/brown toners that may be still available?
Years ago I used Agfa Viradon which was a direct toner. I seem to remember that it reduced the density of the shadows slightly, thus reducing contrast. Not a good feature. Alan |
#2
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Sepia Tone
I have not used a sepia toner for perhaps 20+ years and not really knowing anything different I would have thought that the effects of sepia toning such as the extended life would be lost without the action of the bleach on the visible image. The procedures have changed but I am not sure that using one with a short cut is the best way to go.
I have used the ones with the 'traditional' bleach bad egg smell and found then easier to use in the long run than the Patterson one which did not smell. |
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I don't think that there are any of these brown toners in production, I personally use the FomaToner sepia, it is a 2 solution toner, you get the bleach and just the toner, no need for the additive it is already there, and works well, plus the mixed baths keep for ages, John, you can still get the sulphide toner, Tetenal are the only ones still making it, but the bleach used is the same as for the ouderless toners, I used to use it a lot, but you needed to have the darkroom door open as I had not much ventilation back then, and I finally gave into my Wifes complaints of the house smelling of rotten eggs, and not being able to get rid of the stink for hours, and switched to the thiorea toner to keep peace, and have nhot regretted the switch
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
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Richard, Process Supplies sells Moersch toners. I had the impression that some of these were direct toners, i.e. used without a bleach.
John, toning without a bleach first isn't really a short cut. I think it's just a different process. I am happy to carry on using the Fotospeed ST20, but was just curious about direct toners and if anyone was using them. Alan |
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Quote:
I'll certainly post back my findings.
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MartyNL “Reaching a creative state of mind thru positive action is considered preferable to waiting for inspiration.” - Minor White, 1950 |
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Quote:
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
#7
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Marty, I might do like you and just get one or two and give them a go.
Richard, the Fotospeed ST20 seems to work well with a variety of papers. I like a pearl RC surface, and have had good results with Fotospeed Oyster, Ilford Mgd.4 and Illford RC warmtone. The last is definitely superior to the first two in terms of depth of black. But toning really transforms the bog-standard Mgd. 4. Of course it helps if you like warm toned prints! I know they are not everybody's cup of tea. Alan |
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Quote:
Richard
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jerseyinblackandwhite.blogspot.com |
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I've used "smelly" sepia toners in the past and still have some bottles kicking around. However I've mostly switched to "tunable" thiourea toners now. Much more pleasing to the nose (and health) and they are "tunable". Highly recommend the Moersch kit for that (his "semlly" toners are great too)!
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may the light be with you! FB/Twitter/flickr @maltklaus |
#10
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Quote:
The Thiourea-based toners (Moersch MT3) will need a bleaching step prior to toning.
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