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  #1  
Old 19th October 2016, 03:20 PM
colinH colinH is offline
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Default Bromoil - ink not sticking to paper

Having lost my darkroom 12 years ago I filled my time making salt prints, however now that I have moved house and made a darkroom in my garage I am able to return to normal darkroom work. One of the processes I wanted to try before my darkroom was lost was bromoil.
Being in the position to do so now I have gathered the necessary equipment and made my first 'stab' at it yesterday. Oh dear, not quite straight forward - although likely as not its me! So I would like some help please.

I am using Fomabrom Variant 123, dev MG, fix in plain hypo (2 x 2.5Minutes).
HCA 10minutes then wash in Nova Archival washer for 15 mins. Then dry. Next day...................

Soak dry prints 5 minutes in plain water at 70F
Bleached in Gilbert's Bleach Tan from Wet Plate Supplies. The image faded after just 30secs so I left the prints in the solution for 4 minutes(I understand it'll not harm them)
Fix in hypo and again 2 x 2.5 minutes followed by 10 minutes in HCA then 15 minute wash in Nova Archival washer.
The matrices looked as I would expect them to be.

I've done all the reading on the net, FADU, APUG and thought I did it correctly. The problem is that I CANNOT get the ink to stay on the paper! I am using Litho ink 1796.
Any suggestion would be appreciated. Many thanks, Colin.
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Old 19th October 2016, 06:27 PM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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I don't know the paper that you are using but from your description I suspect incorrect brushwork could be your problem. It is necessary for the brush to be hopped across the paper with a slight dragging motion rather than just banging the brush down and letting it spring up, for if you do this then ink deposited on the down stroke is picked up on the up stroke. The other possible cause is that you haven't blotted the paper enough thereby leaving it too damp.
Correct brushwork is everything in Bromoil work and the hardest to master in my experience.
I will be interested in the thoughts of others on this point.
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Old 19th October 2016, 10:18 PM
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B&W Neil B&W Neil is offline
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ColinH

I would say you are not bleach / tanning for long enough - it is essential that you leave the matrix in the bleach/ tan for the full 10 mins , see the advice given here:

http://www.thebromoilcircleofgreatbr...54_239918.html

I use Gilbert's myself (home brew) and that's what I do.

The best Fomabrom to use is Fomabrom Variant 112 Matt but the emulsion was changed a while back and the current version I have found does not ink up as well - but it can be done.

Currently Slavich matt is considered to be about the best paper to use if you are learning to Bromoil.

I have few of my examples here:

http://www.mono-inthedark.co.uk/sect...18_692108.html

Keep going as this is a great alternative process to master.

Neil.
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Old 20th October 2016, 07:31 AM
colinH colinH is offline
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Thanks to you both
I hope to get a couple of hours at it today and I'll report back.
Neil - can I re-do the bleach tan or now that they are fixed, is that it?
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Old 20th October 2016, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colinH View Post
Thanks to you both
I hope to get a couple of hours at it today and I'll report back.
Neil - can I re-do the bleach tan or now that they are fixed, is that it?

I am not sure on that one as it is not something I have done - but I doubt if it would work.

The reason for the long bleach / tan bath is becasue the matrix also needs tanning (hardening) as well as being bleached. The bleaching part happens quite quickly but the tanning takes much longer.

The link I gave to the Bromoil Circle of GB is a good one and you won't go far wrong if you follow their tutorials.

If you have any problems you can always get back to me as well.

Neil.
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Old 20th October 2016, 09:02 AM
colinH colinH is offline
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Sorry to keep at you, but another thing is the brushes, where do you get them? I see that Silverprint sell something but are they the right thing? I have a shaving brush at present - seems to be the thing to use according to others. And paper, I see that Dave Symonds is recommending 'Imago' from Firstcall. Seems a bit expensive on top of everything else but that may be a good move.
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Old 20th October 2016, 09:46 AM
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There are some Bromoil brushes available from the US but I've not used them. Silverprint have some, which I tried, and I was dissapointed with them, others like them though. I now use a selection of synthectic shaving brushes and sash brushes. In fact you don't need a lot of brushes and a good start can be made with one + a few artists brushes.

The Imago paper is good but pricey, it is also hard to buy. I've not checked with Firstcall lately but the delivery date for their Imago keeps moving back. It is only made occasionally and rumour has it that the last batch was bought up in total by a wealthy US Bromoilist! Slavich matt is good - if you can find it in the UK please let me know. However, it can be obtained from Ireland and elwhere in Europe.

Neil.
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Old 20th October 2016, 10:38 AM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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I have just been on the firstcall site, planning an order, and if you mean Imago direct/positive paper then it appears to be back in stock, delivery 1/3 days Just been there again and I see Imago bromoil paper, it also appears in stock, delivery 1/2 dqys
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Old 20th October 2016, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Richard Gould View Post
I have just been on the firstcall site, planning an order, and if you mean Imago direct/positive paper then it appears to be back in stock, delivery 1/3 days Just been there again and I see Imago bromoil paper, it also appears in stock, delivery 1/2 dqys
Richard
Good news - I'm off to have a look - thanks, Richard.

Neil.
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Old 20th October 2016, 11:42 AM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Seeing this thread and one on APUG, yesterday I think, made me curious enough to look into the Bromoil process.

Can I ask if all Bromoil paper such as Imago is fibre paper? Looking at Neil's link and a Utube video by someone called Gryspeerdt ( I think) it would seem to be FB, although the stuff he was using looked very thin, almost like single weight

Can RC paper be used?

Thanks

Mike.
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