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  #11  
Old 11th January 2015, 09:12 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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John, well done. What was your RA4 paper and what filtration did you use for neutral grey? Thanks

As Lostlabours says, it might be worthwhile trying for sepia as well. That gives the best of both worlds in the form of straight prints and "toned" prints without toning

I have seen prints from B&W negs on RA4 produced by my local mini-lab and to most eyes I'd say that its prints would pass for trad B&W paper.

Of course the lab does it by pushing a few buttons instead of the much more laborious "cut and try" methods we have to use in a darkroom but it does demonstrate that it can work

Mike
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Old 11th January 2015, 09:40 PM
John King John King is offline
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Thanks for that.
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Old 29th January 2015, 08:51 AM
John King John King is offline
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Default Filtration

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Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray View Post
John, well done. What was your RA4 paper and what filtration did you use for neutral grey? Thanks

As Lostlabours says, it might be worthwhile trying for sepia as well. That gives the best of both worlds in the form of straight prints and "toned" prints without toning

I have seen prints from B&W negs on RA4 produced by my local mini-lab and to most eyes I'd say that its prints would pass for trad B&W paper.

Of course the lab does it by pushing a few buttons instead of the much more laborious "cut and try" methods we have to use in a darkroom but it does demonstrate that it can work

Mike
The basic filtration I used was 15M 12Y. The film base used to give the orange mask was from an Agfa C41 rebate. The paper was Fuji Gloss. The enlarger is an LPL6700

I have now almost certainly abandoned Fuji paper, it is sometimes too difficult to get rid of cyan or green casts. I am now using Kodak (Cut from a roll) so the filtration will be different.
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Old 1st May 2015, 07:40 AM
John King John King is offline
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A belated comment on the above. I said that I had given up on Fuji paper because of the casts that I could not get rid of. I had quite a large quantity so at the time was loath to throw it out. I started to use it again for enprints but it is absolutely awful.

It isn't all that old - less than 6 months but the cyan cast will not go away, it seems to be getting worse! A comparative 10x12 print on Fuji and one on Kodak shows the Fuji had a marked loss of colour colour saturation with an all over haze. The Kodak one was miles away the better.

No point in keeping the Fuji so into the recycling bin it goes or to my grandchildren to draw on the back.
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Old 1st May 2015, 11:56 AM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Commiserations, John. That does seem a very short time and to be fair to Fuji such a short time before it goes bad is not a criticism I had heard much of.

The only problem for most folk with Kodak is that only a site in Germany provide cut sheets

Yes it can be cut at home with a bit of a "faff" but I have yet to have the courage to try and whereas a 100 sheet box for intermittent colour sessions is OK I wonder whether I'd have problems with the time I'd take to get through a whole roll

Mike
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Old 1st May 2015, 12:53 PM
John King John King is offline
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Default Cutting Kodak Paper

After the final decision to ditch the Fuji I set about cutting a quantity of the Kodak paper roll.

I think I posted a description of my roll holder a while back and using this I was able to cut 25 sheets of 12x16 in about 10 mins using a guilotine and a piece of 20x16 card marked out in various paper sizes. I chose to cut 12x16 only because it is simpler to do and the sheets can then be cut down to smaller sizes with little waste.

I had my DUKA safelight on turned down to 10% but as the paper comes out of the holder face down it can be handled with relative ease.

My main worry when making the paper holder was that the plywood may contain chemicals that could fog the paper, so far there has been no reaction.

The 12" roll of glossy is 88M long and cost £84, however out of 88M I can cut approx 220 sheets (not allowing for waste, so it is a good deal cheaper than Fuji as well.
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