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  #1  
Old 6th May 2011, 11:06 AM
hilly hilly is offline
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Default Wrong Technique?

Hi all,

Been trying some colour printing as i got my hands on Kodak Ektacolor chemistry and some Endura paper. I didn't have a Jobo drum therefore used trays and after some adjustments got some really good prints using the tray method. Only problem was had to remain in the dark until i had out print into fix. Also i didn't have tray warmer therefore had to keep pouring chems back into brown litre bottles to rewarm.
I got myself a Jobo drum (2840) and had the chemicals in a basin with water at about 32 degrees c. I think i may have contaminated the developer because all my prints were coming out with a magenta hue. I even got my negative i was successful in printing using the trays set up enlarger to exact settings and this came out magenta.
Is there a good working method when using the Jobo drum? I had made up a litre of dev and a litre of fix and after 1 min in drum would pour this chem back into the bottle of dev or fix respectively. I also tried 30s of pre-wet and after stop stage i washed again for 30s.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 6th May 2011, 11:30 AM
Neil Smith Neil Smith is offline
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I have never had this problem but from what I have read, a magenta cast could be from oxidised chemistry or carry over of chemicals into the Bleach Fix. Unfortunately this means it could be a developer problem if it is oxidised or a bleach fix problem if it has had too much carry over from the dev. If this is the case you will need fresh chemicals.

A wash between Dev and Bleach Fix will minimise carry over into the bleach if this is the problem.

Were the chemicals fresh? if not it could be oxidisation.

Neil
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Old 6th May 2011, 12:59 PM
marty marty is offline
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In my experience magenta stain may have a cause in pre-wet before development. Even residual washing water in the drum made the stains to appear on my prints, in other words no water have to touch the emulsion prior developer. That said I find easier to work with trays even if that means to work in whole darkness until the blix is at least at midpoint. I have no tray warmer either and just printing at room (20°C~)temperature works for me (Kodak paper and 3rd party chems, 2' dev + 1' stop in commercial bw stop solution + 2' blix ).

Cheers, M.
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Old 6th May 2011, 02:55 PM
hilly hilly is offline
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Hi Neil and Marty, thanks for the replies. The chemicals were all made up on the day i will give it another go next week.If it keeps happening then its back to the tried and trusted method of using trays for myself!
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Old 6th May 2011, 04:31 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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I'd certainly use a stopbath between dev and blix. A certain ex Kodak engineer on another site says that for RA4 an acid stopbath is an absolute must.

If you go down the road of a Jobo drum with presumably handrolling then you have to dry out the drum completely each time before processing another print. I have failed to be meticulous about this on a couple of occasions and coloured streaks nearly always occur.

You don't have to do it in the dark. A sodium safelight such as the DUKA allows a reasonable level of light safely. Added expense of course.

It might be as cheap to go for a Nova slotty thing and avoid the expense of a safelight. The great thing about the 4 slot is that you can process in the total dark once you find the first slot by feel - not difficult. Once you pull the print out of the first slot then it almost automatically falls into the second stopbath slot then the third blix slot after which roomlight is OK.

Mike
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