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  #21  
Old 14th August 2015, 12:11 PM
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richardw richardw is offline
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The Paterson Orbital is a very reliable, clean and versatile method of developing sheet film. It combines the best of tray processing with the convenience of daylight processing. To get the best monochrome results consistently it requires some small modifications and agitation carried out as per tray processing rather than using the orbital method. For stand development you use 500ml of working solution...

Here's how I modified mine and a short version of how I use it.

http://freepdfhosting.com/f640343f29.pdf

richard
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  #22  
Old 14th August 2015, 07:39 PM
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Martin Aislabie Martin Aislabie is offline
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I use the Mod54 system to process film.

Straight forward and you can do up to 6 Negs at a time.

You just have to remember to put the emulsion side facing inwards.

Ilford, on their film data sheets have a nice picture to show you which way the notches go to indicate the emulsion film side - http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/...2125850702.pdf

I still visualise the picture when handling film.

There are some good YouTube has some good videos to show you how to load Darkslides.

Martin
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  #23  
Old 15th August 2015, 07:38 AM
Lostlabours Lostlabours is offline
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There's also the Jobo 2000 series there's tanks that take one or two reels each holding 6 sheets of 5x4 film. I've had my first for nearly 40 years, thet are Inversion tanks and predate Hobo's rotary processors.

I also have a Dallan Stainless stee 5x4 tank and a Yankee tank, the later is useful as it adjusts for 9x12 and quarter plate ass well, both formats I use.

Ian
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  #24  
Old 16th August 2015, 12:52 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
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Thanks to everyone for all your advice. Thanks also to Michael for some very generous assistance. I have tried tray processing and found it to be a usable method, but quite difficult unless you have a spacious area to lay out the trays, and the ability to sit down during the main operations. My own darkroom is a bit small for that. I've settled on an Orbital, and managed to find one. Having made three successful negatives,a and contact prints, I have to say that I'm hooked! I am already deciding which 35mm and MF gear I can get rid of.
Alex
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  #25  
Old 16th August 2015, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexmuir View Post
Thanks to everyone for all your advice. Thanks also to Michael for some very generous assistance. I have tried tray processing and found it to be a usable method, but quite difficult unless you have a spacious area to lay out the trays, and the ability to sit down during the main operations. My own darkroom is a bit small for that. I've settled on an Orbital, and managed to find one. Having made three successful negatives,a and contact prints, I have to say that I'm hooked! I am already deciding which 35mm and MF gear I can get rid of.
Alex
Don't get rid of anything! Each format has its perfect niche... Well done on the successful contact prints.


richard
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  #26  
Old 24th August 2015, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexmuir View Post
[...]
I will start with tray development, but will need to acquire some form of tank. Any suggestions of what to use/avoid would be welcome.
[...]
Combiplan is my choice and I'm very happy with it. The only "but..." I can think about it is that you'll need about 30 sec. to fill and a bit less to empty the tank - this will condition your process if you like short times with the developer.

LF is a wonderful world.
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  #27  
Old 24th August 2015, 01:12 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
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Thanks, Domingo. I managed to find an orbital. Anxious to get underway, I used it on Friday, before I had read a lot of the useful information in previous threads. I developed some film with about 65ml of ID11 stock. I thought the little cups that came with it were a suitable volume to process the four sheets! I assume they were sufficient for colour prints. I have since followed the good advice of another forum member by reading the archive material, and think I have a better idea of what to do. I'm thinking that about 600-700 ml of solution, developer and dilution to be decided, should adequately cover the film, and allow for proper movement of chemistry.
Alex
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  #28  
Old 24th August 2015, 01:48 PM
Michael Michael is offline
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I use 360 ml, Alex. A couple of 2 minute pre-washes will get rid of the anti-halation layer (if you find traces at the end of the process, they can be rinsed off, of course).
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  #29  
Old 24th August 2015, 06:18 PM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
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Thanks, Michael. Did you add the clear plastic domes on the base? Also, do you use the orbital base unit, or simply sit the tank on the bench and rock it like a tray? Thanks in advance,
Alex
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  #30  
Old 24th August 2015, 07:17 PM
Michael Michael is offline
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Alex - Yes, I used the domes and have never regretted that. I'll photograph my arrangement in the morning and e-mail it to you. For pre-soak, dev, stop and fix I just set the tank on the work surface and agitate manually, rather as Trevor Crone outlined in the earlier thread. I was lucky to get a motorised base a few years ago and I do the washing steps with that.

Don't use the red pegs for film: there are various other options on the thread. My own, for what it's worth, is to use the shanks from Johnson's cotton buds cut to length. I haven't had one slip out yet. The red pegs are too short and film can hop out from under.
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