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#2
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Very interesting, and informative. Which one(s) do folks here use, and how?
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#3
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#4
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Maybe some one here will come up with an answer. |
#5
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I never tried it in my Combiplan as I preferred to use dishes at that time. I found that the Pyrocat left a brown powdery residue in the dish that was very difficult to remove. I may try it again now that I have a hotplate stirrer?
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Cheers, Barry |
#6
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I use Combiplan Tanks with Pyrocat HD, I don't get any problems at all.
N. Development at 24c for 10mins, 30s vigourous agitation to start then 10 inversions every 3 mins. Tap water can cause problems, I use Waitrose bottled water to mix Pyrocat HD to working strength. JON.
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JB-Creative Imagery Jon Butler. http://real-silver-prints.com/ "I Prefer it in the Dark" |
#7
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Leon, I will put one in my new darkroom. However, my previous problems occurred even though I was using using purified water?
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Cheers, Barry |
#8
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I started using Pyrocat HD seven years ago. It was my main developer for a while, then I tried a few others. Lately, since testing it carefully in different dilutions, and in comparison with different developers, it has become my favourite again. I have always mixed it myself, and always used Metol, not Phenidone.
It gives very sharp results; slightly sharper maybe than Rodinal, ID11 1+3, and Perceptol 1+3. It gives nice bright upper-mid tones, slightly brighter than the developers listed above. At a dilution of 1+1+100, or weaker, it gives a very smooth look, with fine grain. I have not been able to get any "edge effects" or any extra sharpness from it, as others have reported, by using semi-stand methods, e.g. agitating every three or four minutes. Or by using a dilution of 1+1.5+200. anfd agitating every 10 minutes, as recommended by Sandy King. But I have only tried these methods with 35mm FP4. Perhaps they wil work with other films. I have got the sharpest results with FP4 by using a dilution of 2+2+100. This seems to give extra micro contrast. This is with normal agitation. 2+2+100 is my standard way of using the developer. This dilution gives more grain; as much as with Rodinal. But the grain is more variagated, more expressive. Great for grainy landscapes with 35mm Tri X or HP5. With Medium or large format this grain doesn't show, of course. At 1+1+100, I have found that dev. times and results are identical to Prescysol EF... Alan |
#9
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Thanks for the information Alan, I may give Pyrocat another try. What sort of dev times are you finding with FP4+ at 2+2+100?
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Cheers, Barry |
#10
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10 minutes at 20 degrees C. No presoak. 30 seconds of inversions, then one inversion every 30 seconds. Negatives printed on middle grades on my condensor enlarger. If you use the 1+1+100 dilution and want to try the 2+2+100 dilution I would suggest knocking a third off your 1+1+100 times, as a starting point. I have developed a lot of 35mm TriX, Foma 400 and HP5 in the 2+2+100 dilution, films mostly exposed in sunny contrasty lighting. 10 minutes at 20 degrees C. yields negatives that print easily on grades 2 or 3. Alan |
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