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  #11  
Old 7th May 2011, 03:28 PM
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Martin Aislabie Martin Aislabie is offline
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Personally, my choice of film for Portraits is FP4

The tonality of FP4 seems to be well matched to portraits - at least of fair/pale skinned individuals

If your subject is dark skinned you may want to try something with a longer toe such as HP5.

Also, if you are shooting dark skin, give 1 to 2 stops extra exposure to get the skin tones nearer the mid point of the films response curve, otherwise it it very easy to loose some detail in the shadows

Martin
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  #12  
Old 7th May 2011, 03:54 PM
Ed Moss Ed Moss is offline
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TRI-X, nothing else comes close
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  #13  
Old 8th May 2011, 07:20 PM
tortoise tortoise is offline
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Excellent.
The only challenge is to find a shop that sells anything but Delta 400 here in Greece.
They told me that they could order some other Ilford films but I would have to order thirty boxes for it to be worth their while.
Indeed.
I shall be consulting the great superstore on the Internet for a wide selection of films that you have recommended to me.
Until then, smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast!
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  #14  
Old 9th May 2011, 01:37 PM
Peter Fitz Peter Fitz is offline
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Fuji Acros in Rodinal Special 1:30 works beautifully for me.
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  #15  
Old 9th May 2011, 03:31 PM
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For monochrome portraits I've had great success with Ilford Delta 100 and Fuji Acros in a studio lighting setup. These 2 films work a treat for optical printing and scanning. A very modern look - perhaps too clean!

For outdoor sessions, I prefer traditional based films like APX100/Rollei Retro 100 and FP4 which create natural and classic range of tones with a hint of very fine grain.

It's surprising how these 4 films when rated at ISO 100 all managed to adhere to one developing time in Fotospeed FD10 developer around 8mins at 20c for colour head enlarger.
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  #16  
Old 16th July 2011, 07:09 PM
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For studioflash portraits i like fp4+ developed in stock id11 and printed
on a warmtone paper like foma with neutol wa, or if you want a more contrasty and neutral try adox fineprint vario classic in kodak polymax paper developer (liquid dektol)
For tungsten studio lights or where you need a faster film then you wont
get much better than tri x in stock id11 printed on a warmtone paper
Use an alkali fixer as well, acid fixers are supposed to degrade the highlights, i have used fotospeed fx40 for the last few years and it cuts the washing time on film and paper down a lot
Efke/adox films are good under tungsten lights for a glowing type photo
but the low asa would mean a fast lens and still subject
paddy
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