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  #21  
Old 6th July 2017, 09:33 AM
EdmundH EdmundH is offline
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Originally Posted by Mike O'Pray View Post
They look pretty good Edmund. I take it that the gable end of the house in the first photo is a genuine pale blue colour. I wasn't expecting the gable end to be a different colour from the front's white so I confess to wondering if this was the blue shadow look that the camera sees but our eyes "correct"

Mike
As far as I remember, the house was actually a pale blue-grey all over, the front has overexposed to resemble white, whilst the end wall has probably picked up some blue from the sky. The sun was quite low and directional.
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  #22  
Old 6th July 2017, 01:58 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Thanks Edmund. That explains it and when I look again the lack of detail on the front confirms it. I can't speak for others but when my brain sees a white wall in the sun it just accepts that a relatively featureless white is normal . So but for the large expanse of gable end and your explanation I'd never have thought of slight overexposure.

Mike
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  #23  
Old 2nd April 2018, 08:43 PM
KidderJem KidderJem is offline
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Excellent. I feel inspired to get my camera out and get some chems and paper.
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  #24  
Old 2nd April 2018, 11:20 PM
EdmundH EdmundH is offline
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Originally Posted by KidderJem View Post
Excellent. I feel inspired to get my camera out and get some chems and paper.
You really should try it. Colour printing it really is no harder then monochrome. Prints are much quicker to produce once you have the enlarger filtration sorted. My average exposure for an 8x10 is only around 10 seconds, plus around 3 minutes for processing. I do advise getting a Nova processor though, as chemical temperature in open trays wouldn't be stable enough for consistent results.
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  #25  
Old 3rd April 2018, 07:26 AM
John King John King is offline
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Edmund and I have had a number of 'off forum' conversations and shared ideas. I will go along with getting a Nova processor, they are indispensable. Using alternatives such as open trays as he said can lead to inconsistent results and using a rotary drum such as the type used in a JOBO, even if only making a test strip print, will have to be rinsed out after every print which could be a pain . Not only that it would have to be dried out, as even plain water can lead to streaks. To say nothing about any missed chemical residue will lead to staining.

I could not manage without my DUKA safe light. They are 'safe' so long as they are turned down to about 1/6th of maximum and the light reflected off the ceiling. Once your eyes have become accustomed it is surprising how much you can actually see.

I use the same safe light when making B&W, but with the level turned up to full. Even 20 mins exposure with multigrade B&W has shown no effect on the paper.

As he said, once the colour balance is achieved, minor differences are easily rectified. A tip to keep differences as little as possible is to find what film/C41 developer you prefer and stick to it. The natural overall orange mask can vary from brand to brand and even between different types from the same manufacturer.

Last edited by John King; 3rd April 2018 at 07:30 AM.
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  #26  
Old 5th April 2018, 08:09 PM
RobertJMan RobertJMan is offline
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Thumbs up Inspiring indeed!

Colour...

How many wonderful things FADU brings into my life...

Robert
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