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  #11  
Old 9th December 2009, 12:41 PM
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B&W Neil B&W Neil is offline
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Seeing what Dave has said about the weight of the contents I had better clarify whilst I built my sink out of marine ply and battening the supporting structure was made out of 3"x2" timber. Another thing about building is you can have exactly what you want and at the height that suits you. I am a quite tall so I have it organized so I am not stooping or bending. I also use a mixture on slotty things, slotty thing washers and trays so have arranged everything on the wet side to suit.

Neil.
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  #12  
Old 9th December 2009, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyreynolds View Post
Neil,
Did you slope the bottom of your sink ? if so, doesn't the water collect after the drain ? or is the slope so gradual its not an issue. did you batten around the edge to hold the base in place? or put cross braces in for the base to sit on? also one more, can you remember what you used to seal the corner, I know screw ad waterproof glue but was there any kind of sealer after that ?

thanks

andy
Andy.

I decided against sloping the bottom as I wanted a dead flat surface to use when I am processing film etc (I do it in the sink). The water runs down the waste OK and a quick wipe around with a small sponge will clear the last few drops. But I hardly ever worry about this. I would recommend you build it rectangular, to ensure dead flat mating surfaces, and if you want a run to clear water put the sink in with a slight drop towards the drain hole.

I used 3/4" marine ply (can't remember what that is in mm) so it only needed a bit of battening to secure the base. The aim is to construct it without any screws within the sink itself.

Use a good waterproof glue on every join and give the structure a good time to dry. Then go to a decent builders merchant and look at all the tubes of waterproof sealers and find one that allows you to paint over it when its dry. Do not be tempted to use a silicon one as the paint won't go over it.

Then just do all the joints on the inside of the sink with this sealer - give it a few days to set off before painting.

Neil..
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  #13  
Old 9th December 2009, 01:13 PM
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Thanks neil appreciated
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  #14  
Old 9th December 2009, 09:14 PM
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Welcome to fadu Andy, good luck with your new darkroom.
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  #15  
Old 9th December 2009, 09:36 PM
Richard Gould Richard Gould is offline
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Hi Andy and welcome to fadu, have fun in your fifth darkroom and we hope to see some ofthe results soon,Richard
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  #16  
Old 9th December 2009, 10:57 PM
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Hi Andy and welcome to FADU. I have made a number of sinks; I use ply and fibreglass the inside - absolutely no chance of any leaks. Got a sloping base and the waste is recessed. Does the job!
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  #17  
Old 9th December 2009, 11:20 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is offline
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Hi Andy and welcome to FADU The sink that Dave refers to may be the thread that I started in FADU. The original auction date is long since past but the seller may have re-listed. I haven't checked but it sounded an absolute bargain and even allowing for the fuel costs to collect may well be worth your while. Sinks which are new are expensive but should last a lifetime so may be worth the cost. Depends on how much of a lifetime you have left : Some of us here share the darkroom with a guy in a black cloak with a scythe but he never gets in the way and his garb doesn't fog paper. He is indifferent to all my prints except those of graveyards which he likes, muttering something about people who are already members of his club.

Mike
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  #18  
Old 10th December 2009, 11:26 AM
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Welcome aboard Andy.

Any chance you can increase that 6 feet for the bench? Mine is a plastic 7' one and I often run out of space if going over 12x16"... Also, very important to consider the width of the sink. You will want at least 20" and, if I was building from scratch, I would go for 28" in order to fit 24" trays (you never know!)...

Good luck, and have fun!

Cheers, Bob.
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  #19  
Old 10th December 2009, 02:27 PM
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As most things are, my darkroom is a compromise. I wanted to take the whole garage, but needed some storage at the front so have taken just over 2/3rds. I wanted an emergency second door out into the rest of the garage but would lose valuable counter space so have settled on a purpose built weak patch in the partition wall that I could get through if the man in the cloak decides to set fire to my house. As for the sink, I would have loved to take it to 8ft across the back wall, but I'm lucky enough to have a partner that has got into photography herself, so I have to build it with 2 dry sides for 2 people working... I do like the 28" depth idea though.

I've been thinking about having a removeable shelf that I can put on top of the sink at one end. This will allow me to have 2 large trays in the sink and one on top, so large trays a possibility

I am also thinking of making a wall easel so I can flip the head of my durst and get some big enlargements..

Would normal exterior WBP ply be sufficient if I can't get marine ply ?, its gonna be well coated with floor paint

Andy
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  #20  
Old 10th December 2009, 02:42 PM
Dave miller Dave miller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyreynolds View Post
As most things are, my darkroom is a compromise. I wanted to take the whole garage, but needed some storage at the front so have taken just over 2/3rds. I wanted an emergency second door out into the rest of the garage but would lose valuable counter space so have settled on a purpose built weak patch in the partition wall that I could get through if the man in the cloak decides to set fire to my house. As for the sink, I would have loved to take it to 8ft across the back wall, but I'm lucky enough to have a partner that has got into photography herself, so I have to build it with 2 dry sides for 2 people working... I do like the 28" depth idea though.

I've been thinking about having a removeable shelf that I can put on top of the sink at one end. This will allow me to have 2 large trays in the sink and one on top, so large trays a possibility

I am also thinking of making a wall easel so I can flip the head of my durst and get some big enlargements..

Would normal exterior WBP ply be sufficient if I can't get marine ply ?, its gonna be well coated with floor paint

Andy
Richard said he his is made from MDF, so standard plywood should be fine, after all the wood is only there to stop the waterproof paint flopping about.
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