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  #11  
Old 3rd February 2014, 06:32 AM
RichardWarom RichardWarom is offline
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Hi Will welcome to FADU and your right it is a welcoming and happy forum.
Richard
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  #12  
Old 3rd February 2014, 03:37 PM
Dave Hall Dave Hall is offline
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Good to see you will
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  #13  
Old 18th February 2014, 04:40 PM
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Barry Barry is offline
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Welcome to fadu Will.
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  #14  
Old 24th February 2014, 07:11 PM
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GoodOldNorm GoodOldNorm is offline
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Default Durst AC 707 manual uploaded

See manuals section on FADU. Have fun!

Last edited by GoodOldNorm; 24th February 2014 at 07:12 PM. Reason: added text
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  #15  
Old 24th February 2014, 08:48 PM
JOReynolds JOReynolds is offline
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Start with B&W film, paper and chemistry, because mastering colour filtration will consume vast amounts of expensive paper and chemistry. Don't bother with the automatic replenishment section until you are processing at least two square metres per day - that's nearly 40 8 x 10" prints. But it could come in handy eventually. Start by playing with water because tabletop processors (where the recirculation pumps are at the same level as the tanks) are inherently prone to air-locks. The pumps are lubricated by the liquid being pumped - if no liquid flows, the pump burns out. Traces of RA4 bleachfix (brown) must be washed out thoroughly. Get comfortable with draining and refilling. I believe that the Printo runs at a fixed speed, so the temperature must compensate, 30deg C for B&W, 38deg C for RA4.
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  #16  
Old 25th February 2014, 08:45 PM
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David Brown David Brown is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William View Post
Hello all,

I am a strange combination of geek and ludite ...
One of the best descriptions of amateur film photographers I've ever read!

Welcome aboard from Texas.
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http://www.silverdarkroom.net
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  #17  
Old 4th March 2014, 10:04 PM
William William is offline
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Many thanks to everyone for the advice. I now have my first prints and am completely hooked. I found 30 degrees meant my exposure time was about 4-5 seconds at f8 which seems very short. I was thinking of dropping it to around 26 degrees next time in order to have more control for dodging/burning. Thanks again. Will
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  #18  
Old 4th March 2014, 10:56 PM
Mike O'Pray Mike O'Pray is online now
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Will, I am confused about the reference to 30 and 26 degrees. They seem to have a correlation with short exposure time but I don't know what that link is?

Thanks

Mike
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  #19  
Old 5th March 2014, 09:06 AM
William William is offline
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Hi mike. 30 degrees was the temperature I set the developer and stop bath to. Because I am using the durst printo. Without changing the cogs my developing times are fixed, but I can change the temperature. Actually now I am writing it down it makes less sense. What is the best method to allow me to increase exposure times. I am already at f8. Cheers. Will
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  #20  
Old 5th March 2014, 11:13 AM
alexmuir alexmuir is offline
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The increased temp should only affect the time taken to develop the print, regardless of exposure. If the developing time is too long, relative to temperature, it will have an adverse effect on the image quality. You need to work out if the exposure, or the processing is at fault. If it is the print exposure, this could be because the lamp in the enlarger is very bright, or your negatives are thin( normally due to under exposure in camera). If the enlarger has colour filters built in, I believe you can dial in cyan to act as a neutral density filter for monochrome printing. This would effectively give longer print exposures without stopping down beyond f8. Best image quality is around the middle of the aperture range on enlarger lenses. F5.6-8 if its a 50 f2.8.
Alex
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