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> more X-ray again |
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#21
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Thanks Paul.
This contact print is out of 12x16" Xray film: A cooking book from 1851 where I have tried to achieve a diagonal plane of sharpness with more or less success.... Last edited by Reginald S; 23rd September 2022 at 08:54 PM. |
#22
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#23
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that's a great print, Reginald some more please . x-ray film defiantly stands on its own .I shoot x-ray in my large format ,and all my medium format cameras ,I use polaroid backs and empty pack film cassettes to hold the film with .I love playing with film and two films I use in my polaroid backs are cut down 4x5 fomapan and x-ray film both cheap and fun .
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#24
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I need this film especially for LF photography because typical sheetfilm isn't available or way to expensive.
I further use 5x7" Xray mostly for testing the behaviour in certain situations but sometimes for using the look of the shadowside of this film: I burned the shaft of the plant down to this tones. |
#25
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In comparism I have found mild film developers working best to the positive contacts from Xray film.
Finding nuances just seen in direct comparisms against different paper developers, I ended with Rodinal as my paper developer. If you are not behind brilliant highlights Xray film is a great administrator of darker sides :-) |
#26
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Hi Reginald.
I have read a few times about users, from many years ago, using Rodinal as a print developer. I do believe that I have even seen older adverts advertising this feature. But, more recent comments have been more about how expensive it works out when compared to a dedicated print developer, although if made by oneself, it may be slightly cheaper? Also, what effect on the print does it have, that you like? And finally, what dilution and time have you used? Many thanks, Terry S |
#27
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Terry,
I wouldn't work with Rodinal as my favourite paper developer because of my other recommendations there, but it gives me a slightly finetuning to the highlights in developing my Xray film contacts. My Xray prints like to show wax tones in the brighter middletones in paper developers - with Rodinal it seems to work a litle, litle bit better. So it's about the better tones I can achieve, but you wouldn't see this without a direct comparism, this fine are these things. To be sure I have made tests with friends which have had to find the print of greatest symphaty without knowing the developers used on the paper. After a decision phase of some minutes the winner always had been the Rodinal print. That's it. I am not very interested in saving money for reaching best results on my papers, but the financial issue rises up while developing 12x16" negatives of course. Fortunately Rodinal suits all my recommendations very well so it has been my negative developer and Xray contact developer for some years. Which also means that my Rodinal didn't get the chance to become old - another option to me. This has been in times where I was able to buy fresh cans of 3 Liter at 25 Euro each. Probably I have to find another developer now because the price of Rodinal enormously has rised up. Developing my Xray negatives and the contact prints always has been a thing of sight instead of time so I cannot help out with this question. The dilution for paper is around 1:10 to 1:20 and I fear that concerning your paper you have to figure out yourself. Don't forget that than 70 years ago Rodinal has been used as a negative developer with different baths/trays. Used Rodinal, strong Rodinal and warm Rodinal - things like this. During this days Pinacryptol gave the possibility to control the halfdeveloped negative by sight under green light. This is not what the Zone master of today really wants to do but it will definitely give a lot of creative potential. Par example if my finest lights don't want to show up well after normal positive developing I accelerate the rest developer lurking himself within the emulsion in a bath of warm water and with my fingers. Best, Reginald Last edited by Reginald S; 25th September 2022 at 01:06 PM. |
#28
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Reginald, thanks for the reply.
Terry S |
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