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Fibre Print Drying, An Alternate Approach
Dave Miller
Dave miller
27th November 2008
When we work on fibre paper prints we sometimes have difficulty in obtaining a completely flat print. The drying method described here, which guarantees a flat print, is one that I came across some years ago, and Iím no longer sure where,...
  #10  
By Dave miller on 8th July 2011, 12:50 PM
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Thatís interesting Tony, thanks for the feedback, it does sound to me that you are working with the paper far too wet. It is important to mop all surface water off both sides of the print before taping it down. I have to moisten the tape to allow it to stick and have never had to put more than 4 or 5mm of tape on the print. When next you try this get as much water out of the print as you can with tissue before taping it down onto dry glass.
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  #11  
By TobyDeveson on 8th July 2011, 02:18 PM
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I guess there is no harm in hanging the prints up to dry for half an hour or so. The main reason I am doing this is to avoid the dry down though so I wouldnt want that process to start before I tape the paper down.

I shall perservere. I guess the main problem with using cling film is it may not allow the paper to breath evenly as it is inevitably crinkly.
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  #12  
By Dave miller on 8th July 2011, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TobyDeveson View Post
I guess there is no harm in hanging the prints up to dry for half an hour or so. The main reason I am doing this is to avoid the dry down though so I wouldnt want that process to start before I tape the paper down.

I shall perservere. I guess the main problem with using cling film is it may not allow the paper to breath evenly as it is inevitably crinkly.
No need to hang them up, just dab the moisture off each side of the print before taping.
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  #13  
By paddy on 9th July 2011, 06:31 PM
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Hi everyone
This is my first post so go easy on me.
I buy acid free blotting paper from silverprint in london
I squegee the surface water off the fibre print then sandwich the print inbetween the first 2 blotters with a heavy book on top for 20 minutes then the 2nd blotters for 2 hours then the 3rd and final blotters overnight (12 hours)
In the morning or 12 hours later i take the print out and it has dried flat, but on a hot day prints will tend to curl a bit anyway (16x12).
paddy
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  #14  
By Nabhar on 11th April 2012, 09:27 AM
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I tried this last week, exactly as described, and it works an absolute treat. I no longer have to use the hot-press, books with weights, or dry-down timing calculations.
I received many approving comments from my fellow artisans .....so the local glazier might benefit too!

Thanks Dave.
JP
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  #15  
By Paulographic on 11th April 2012, 11:32 AM
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My method of removing surface water from prints, aside from a squegee, is to lay them on a high quality tea towel with another on top then dab with good quality kitchen roll which though unlikely to be acid free is not in contact with the prints for more than seconds. The towels I use are catering glass cloths, the size of six 10x8s, got from a mill shop for 50p each.
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  #16  
By Dave miller on 11th April 2012, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nabhar View Post
I tried this last week, exactly as described, and it works an absolute treat. I no longer have to use the hot-press, books with weights, or dry-down timing calculations.
I received many approving comments from my fellow artisans .....so the local glazier might benefit too!

Thanks Dave.
JP
I'm pleased to read that you found it helpful.
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