Support our Sponsors, they keep FADU free: AG Photographic The Imaging Warehouse Process Supplies RH Designs Second-hand Darkroom Supplies |
> Peak 2000 Focus Finder instructions? |
*** Click here for the FADU 2015/2014 Yearbooks *** |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Peak 2000 Focus Finder instructions?
I have just purchased second hand from Paul Paterson a Peak 2000 Critical Focus Finder and I wondered if anyone had instructions on using one.
I have used a Paterson Focus Finder and this Peak model appears to work on similar principals but I need some guidance on set up. With the Paterson, which can I say is available free to a good home for anyone just starting out, is set by focusing on parallel hairs in the viewer but the peak has an oblong box hair configuration which I assume is it's way of focus setting but I am unsure. Any help in this matter gratefully appreciated- Thank you
__________________
"Die Zukunft der Erinnerung" -Leica-"The Future of Memories" Regards Kenneth |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
First focus the eyepiece so that the little oblong box is sharp - that adjusts for your eye. Position the finder mirror in the area of interest, alter the angle of the eyepiece so that the image shows in the eyepiece (the angle will vary depending on how far off the centre of the image you are). Then focus the enlarger as usual - both the box and the image should be equally sharp. The beauty of the Peak is that you can see into the corners of the image as well as the centre, so you'll know if your enlarger alignment needs attantion.
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
"Die Zukunft der Erinnerung" -Leica-"The Future of Memories" Regards Kenneth |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
You can also buy a blue filter that sits on the top of the eyepiece - the blue dims the view a little but heightens the contrast and makes it easier to focus the grain to get pin sharp. I find it very useful. I'm not sure if it's still available as I got my Peak some 15 years back.
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
There has been lots of chit chat about the blue filter which comes with peak focus finders. Indeed lots of chit chat about peak focus finders in general.
Some claimed the blue was for use with graded papers which are only sensitive to blue which sounds plausible. But many noatable persons have said that peak focus finders aren't as accurate as other focus finders and that the blue filter actually makes things worse because the wavelength it transmits is in a different band from that which paper is sensitive to. So it all has to be taken with a pinch of salt. Or better still do a very simple test comapring one finder against another. The cost and build quality of a finder is totally irrelevent but many beleive just because it costs a lot of money and is built like a tank, it must be good. Well peak are handy for seeing into the corners but aside from that they are no better than any other finder and may be worse. But then again any finder may be worse than a peak. Just depends on how well each unit and its lens was put together.
__________________
An old dog learning new tricks |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
All I can say from experience and my eyesight is that I find it much easier to see the grain pop on my Focomats (which will not autofocus as I reset the heights to make bigger prints) when using the blue filter than without but that's just me. Years back I like'd to make 20 x 24" prints and the tilting mirror of the larger Peak finder made it much easier to check the edges. More importantly, at least for me, correct enlarger alignment makes a huge difference especially as I tend to print with the lens wide open when making lith prints.
Last edited by Larbalestier; 8th February 2010 at 07:09 PM. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Over the years I have bought and used them all and I have to say the Peak has been the best and that's all I use these days. Build quality and optical quality it beats them all hands down. I am not saying the others won't do the job as they do and in their time I have relied on them. But the Peak just seems much easier to use and the optical quality is so much better.
Neil.
__________________
"The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance." Aristotle Neil Souch |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Well yes enlarger alignment, particularly between the negative and lens, is what is really critical. Depth of field at the negative is very very narrow whereas depth of focus at the paper plane is much bigger. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't try to get them both as close to spot on as possible.
__________________
An old dog learning new tricks |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
What works for me is aligning the easel, the lens and negative plane - and then checking the edges and the centre of the projected negative at the intended aperture. The larger the print the more noticeable the difference especially if it's from a 400-1600 asa 35mm neg.....
But having said all of this it really depends on the look and feel you want your images to have in the final print - I think there's always room for flexibility and there are always many variables. I think one's style of printing and one's choice of equipment is a very personal thing and should reflect their initial shooting style. What works of one person may not necessarily work for someone else. |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Steve. |
Support our Sponsors, they keep FADU free: AG Photographic The Imaging Warehouse Process Supplies RH Designs Second-hand Darkroom Supplies |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Peak District | Rob Archer | Meetings | 9 | 24th February 2010 07:44 AM |
Peak District Meeting | Dave miller | Meetings | 25 | 8th April 2009 06:06 AM |
Peak Light by Dave Butcher | Dave miller | Books | 5 | 14th February 2009 07:04 PM |
focus 09 | photomi7ch | Photography in general | 6 | 2nd February 2009 04:35 PM |