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  #11  
Old 17th May 2022, 09:16 AM
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Have you tried contacting your lab to find out their method and materials?
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  #12  
Old 17th May 2022, 09:19 AM
loganca loganca is offline
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Quote:
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How long is your pre-wetting?
I believe I pre-wet the film for 3 minutes.
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Old 17th May 2022, 09:21 AM
loganca loganca is offline
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Have you tried contacting your lab to find out their method and materials?
I haven't contacted them since starting home development, but they use dip and dunk machines so a completely different process.
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Old 17th May 2022, 09:49 AM
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When hand processing, I only agitate 2 turns every 30 seconds. I don't know how you can get 5-7 turns in 30 seconds, it certainly seems over zealous by my processing standards!
Also, I switch hand positions to alternate the twist direction.
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Old 17th May 2022, 10:25 AM
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Different rolls shot in different cameras showing a similar fault- that really points to a processing issue rather than faulty cassettes or dodgy cameras. At the moment I'm suspecting uneven development for some reason.

loganca- could you take us through your process step by step?
To give you an idea, here's mine.

Load film to spiral. Carefully- any kinks can stress film, and will produce white marks in the print.
Fill tank with water at 21 c to warm. Invert a couple of times to dislodge air bubbles. Leave to stand.
While film is soaking, mix developer to 21C. My working temperature is 20, but the dev will cool during development.
Dump wash water.
Pour in developer, close lid. Slow inversions for 30 seconds. Don't invert too vigorously as you may generate froth, and you don't want the dev 'surging' over the film.
I invert gently twice every 30 seconds, and give the tank a small tap on the bench afterwards- again, to shift bubbles.
At the end of dev time, dump dev.
Fill with water at 20c, invert 5 times, dump.
Refill with water, invert 5 times, dump.
Pour in fix and invert for 30 seconds.
At the end of fixing I wash by Ilford method.
I finish with 1 dop of wetting agent in the tank, then drain the film at an angle so the water runs to one side, then down the film.

Perhaps you could take us through your process to look for possible flaws?
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  #16  
Old 17th May 2022, 10:25 AM
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I recommend continuous agitation. I make it so every time.

It is easy getting bromide streaks in flat gray areas. Agitation is the best way against it.
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Old 17th May 2022, 10:34 AM
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Uwe, are you using a motorised base for this?
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  #18  
Old 17th May 2022, 10:39 AM
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There is one thing that occurs to me, although I may be way off the mark. HC110 original formula is pretty thick. It has to be thoroughly mixed to ensure an even solution. I know this from experience. If it is not completely diluted, you will end up with uneven development. I hope you find a solution. Home developing allows far more control and flexibility than commercial processing.
Alex


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  #19  
Old 17th May 2022, 11:30 AM
mpirie mpirie is offline
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The other thing that sprung to mind was using SS reels.....could the film base be touching the film face of the corresponding film behind it.....or close enough to be causing differential development?

Mike
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  #20  
Old 17th May 2022, 12:17 PM
Stocky Stocky is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexmuir View Post
There is one thing that occurs to me, although I may be way off the mark. HC110 original formula is pretty thick. It has to be thoroughly mixed to ensure an even solution. I know this from experience. If it is not completely diluted, you will end up with uneven development. I hope you find a solution. Home developing allows far more control and flexibility than commercial processing.
Alex


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This seems feasible to me. The first minute of development is apparently critical to uniformity.

About the only variation you haven't tried is a different developer.

Last edited by Stocky; 17th May 2022 at 12:19 PM. Reason: addition
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