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> Pyrocat HD Development Issues in Tri-x |
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#1
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Pyrocat HD Development Issues in Tri-x
Hi All,
Are there any ideas as to why these blotches might be appearing ? Pyrocat HD 1+1+100, water stop bath and TF-3 fix in a Jobo. I'm keeping all chems super fresh and only adding the Pyrocat to the pre warmed water about 2 mins before development so it doesn't oxidise. This happens intermittently on roll film and 4x5 and i can't figure out what is causing it. It's the same look every time it happens and one sheet of 4x5 could have the issue while others in the same tank are fine. The nearest i've come to is the slight possibility of it happening on film thats waited to be processed for a while (perhaps a month) and some older tri-x (2016) definitely did show this issue. But i'm clutching at straws to be honest. I've had a pop at Kodak as i was convinced it was the film stock but obviously i didn't get anywhere with them. They blamed everything under the sun, literally, but not the stock itself. As always any info appreciated. Simon |
#2
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I've replied on another Forum
Ian |
#3
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I'd be interested in Ian's response. I had a very similar problem with 120 film in Pyrocat years ago and I found that pre washing in water for a couple of minutes made the problem go away. I have no idea why, but it worked. I'm not intending to start another debate about pre washing, it just worked.
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#4
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A lot of problems with film are coursed by the way its kept and stored , I think medium and large format film Is more prone to problems than 35mm film ,35mm comes quite loosely loaded in a metal canaster ,medium format is wrapped in paper quite tightly on a roll and large format is stacked one on the other in a box ,so i would buy 35mm in bulk, it stores well but 120 and LF does not store so well so don't buy to much stock in them sizes ..I have always wondered is 220 has the same storage problems as 120 as it douse not have the backing paper all the way just the beginning and the end ..
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#5
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Hi Stocky,
Ian suggested air bells and to tap the drum to dislodge them. I'm also doing a pre wash and for 5 minutes which isn't quite working for me. |
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Quote:
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#7
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Hi Vanannan,
Glycol. |
#8
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I had a similar problem, it was my part B, when I held the solution up to a strong light I could see particles in it. I now make my B solution with de-ionised water, never had a problem since. I buy de-ionised water in 50 ltr tubs from an oil supplier to the motor trade.
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#9
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I think you might be right.
I just checked my part B and it looks a school marine biology experiment in there ! Do you still mix part A in glycol ? I'm just trying to work out what the advantage of that might be seeing as part B will not have the same keeping qualities. Either way i'm ditching this (big) batch made in glycol and will follow your advice. Be aware folks of Photographer's Formulary mixed in glycol i think is the message. |
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It may be worth asking The Formulary - they have a good reputation in these matters. The bits floating about may be something they have seen before and may even have a solution (no pun intended...).
Part-B does not need glycol - it is just 750g of potassium carbonate to make 1 litre of solution. The glycol in part-A increases shelf life by keeping oxygen away from the developing agents. You can throw your part-B away and make up a new batch as Norm does in de-ionised/distilled water if you like (it seems it does come out of solution easily) but first try heating it to 40-50C and stir for 10 mins - if no joy, you can make a new batch of part B. Given the stock solution-A made with water lasts for at least a year, it is probably less hassle all round to make it with distilled water rather than glycol which I guess The Formulary do for the enhanced shelf-life. It has been a few years since I made any (and that was with water). Last edited by Bob; 31st March 2021 at 03:59 PM. |
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