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Old 15th March 2009, 10:18 AM
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Default Tried some Viradon

Only one MGIV FB print and it wasn't a sucess. It may not have been washed as fully as necessary before toning but it wasn't staright from the fixer either.
First thing I noticed was a milky residue appearing and the toner went quite milky yellow. Then I noticed the print seemed to lose contrast and began to take on a veiled look. At first no noticeable colour change. Just loss of contrast and veiled look to it. Then I notcied that at certain angles to the light there was significant toning in some areas but alter the viewing angle and the very warm tone disappeared. Very odd. Also my paw prints all over it. Should have known that would happen.
I tried 1+200 which maybe wasn't strong enough as it recommends 1+24. Next time I'll try recommended strength.
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Old 15th March 2009, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by percepts View Post
Only one MGIV FB print and it wasn't a sucess. ... and the toner went quite milky yellow. ..
I tried 1+200 which maybe wasn't strong enough as it recommends 1+24. Next time I'll try recommended strength.
Rob,
Yes, Viradon, Kodak Brown, both are milky yellow in the tray after making a fresh batch (1:200) and smell like rotten eggs. I'm very sure the white (specs) precipitation is from fixer contamination. As I mentioned in the other Viradon thread, I first started with 20 'identical' prints and kept good notes. If you're going to use only Viradon and Selenium, you could get by with a 4 print minimum. I don't know why you did not, or why you did not mention if you finished with Kodak Rapid Selenium (contains Ammonium thiosulfate fixer), a wash in Archival Wash and then a fresh water wash.
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Old 15th March 2009, 08:10 PM
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Sounds like my first experiments with Viradon. I found it only worked well with fully-washed prints. Obviously, the weaker you make it, the more likely contamination will be a problem. I used it at 1:50 (IIRC) and that was fine. It also seemed to need constant agitation to avoid uneven toning. I never used it with MGFB IV but it gave beautiful, 'chocolatey' results with Fotospeed Legacy (RIP). I've not yet found a replacement paper/dev/toner combination like it! (

(Unfortunately all my prints were on 12x16 so I can't scan them and post an example)

Rob
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Old 15th March 2009, 08:27 PM
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Tim Rudman in his book talks about the milky deposit with Viradon which he says can be swabbed off in the wash. He said it tends to occur after a few prints have been toned or if the toner has been left standing. He discards it when it does become milky. This may have happened in your case due to the weak dilution. He also says a pinkish staining can happen in the borders and highlights which usually appears in the washing. This can be be stopped by a post toning bath in 10 percent sodium sulphite solution also by immediate and continued robust agitation during toning.
Tony
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Old 16th March 2009, 05:24 PM
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I've not read Tim Rudman's book as I did all my testing years before I was familiar with him, but that makes sense to me. We need to first get on the same page though regarding the 'milky deposit'. I'm very sure the white deposit that TR mentions to be swabbed-off (or later discarded) is the precipitation that floats near the top that looks like small specs of cottage cheese. For conversation, we need to separately define that precipitation from the overall 'silty' yellow of the active toner that does leave a thin filmy residue on the print until it's washed. The only time that I still get the white floating white specs is when I sometimes use Selenium first, before going to Viradon/Kodak Brown, my experience with that order of toners led me to believe that the fixer in the Selenium was causing the floating white specs because it was a constant, granted, it could be triggered by something else that was not explained.

Re: the post Sodium Sulphite (Sulfite) bath - that makes sense, too. Sodium Sulfite is the secondary ingredient of Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner (KRST) which I always finish with and have never found the Brown Toner filmy residue to be a long term problem.

Bob's 1:50 noted above makes sense to me also in that my chosen 1:200 @ 70F is to warm the print only slightly, clearing away the greenish / blue-ish cast of the paper.

Try a 5 minute Selenium final bath (1:9, 70 to 75F) after the Viradon and see how you like that look.

In the meantime, I'm going to do some online searching to see if I can find Viradon available here in Obamaland again!
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Old 16th March 2009, 05:56 PM
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I didn't use selenium. I was hoping the Viradon alone would be enough to just give a little warmth.
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Old 16th March 2009, 09:52 PM
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If you are using MGFB & Selenium, then your prints won't go warm - they change from a olive green tinge to a aubergine tinge in Selenium.

May be if you toned the prints with Viradon first then they might go slightly warm in the Selenium bath - I think thats what TR says in his Toning book.

Martin
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Old 17th March 2009, 12:08 AM
Victor Krag Victor Krag is offline
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I found that both MGIV and Oriental Seagull perform more the same than other variables might influence.

60 sec Viradon 1:200 70-75F
quick water wash / rinse
5 or more mins Selenium 1:9 70-75F
Archival Wash Soak
Water wash

will give a medium warming as my "Mission Library" image (Interiors Album).
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